L'Impressionniste Review

Traveling on a canal barge in France is as similar to mainstream cruising as a Twinkie is to a fine French pastry.

In other words, and simply put, there's no real comparison.

L'Impressionniste, like most of the barges in Go Barging's fleet, was built as a working vessel, to carry general cargo in Holland. Constructed in 1960, it's one of the younger barges belonging to European Waterways (Go Barging's parent company), but it's also, at 128 feet long, one of the largest.

When it was acquired by European Waterways in 1996, it was gutted and refitted as a hotel barge, with the addition of six bedrooms (a seventh, single room was recently added), a fully-functional kitchen, pleasant outdoor deck space and a living/dining room known as the "saloon." With its low (two decks) profile and upturned prow, L'Impressionniste resembles a big black slipper from a distance, with piping of gold at its front. Its flat bottom and low speed provide stability for the Rhone River, the Canal du Rhone a Sete, the Canal du Midi and the Herault River, its typical route in both directions.

The French have a word for these vessels that is much more pleasant and evocative than the English word "barge." They are known as peniches -- pronounced peh-NEESH -- and they can be found on the inland waterways of France throughout Provence, Burgundy, the Loire Valley, the Jura region...anywhere there is water, wine, cheese or history.

L'Impressionniste's six-night, one-way route starts in the Provencal city of Avignon and ends in Montpellier for Agde, and the ship sails the reverse itinerary back to Avignon on alternate weeks. The trip includes stops in Arles, site of Vincent van Gogh's most memorable paintings; Aigues Mortes, a medieval port with access to the Mediterranean; and Marseillan, home of the venerable Noilly Prat vermouth distillery.

It's an all-inclusive voyage, with beer, wine, liquor and most shore excursions included; there are five staff members on board including the skipper, a chef, a tour guide and two hostesses, all of whom speak English, French and often another language as well. The trip is placid, convivial, restful; it's filled with gastronomy, history, and -- with room for just 13 guests -- new and enduring friendships.