The charms of a cruise to Bermuda are not lost on those who prefer big-ship voyages, but alas, neither the mouth of Hamilton Harbour nor the dock facilities in town can accommodate those larger vessels. Which means, increasingly, that cruise ships once based at Hamilton, Bermuda's capital city (or even at the picturesque St. George's) now must go to King's Wharf (also known as the Royal Navy Dockyard). But by no means does that mean one must bypass Hamilton; it's an easy ferry ride from the Dockyards.
In any event, you really shouldn't miss a visit to Hamilton. It's also the place that attracts the most visitors because it has plenty of sightseeing attractions -- including Bermuda's newest, the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute. Most attractions are easy to see on foot. As you stroll through this beautiful port town, you'll love the charming pastel-colored two-story buildings along Front Street (take a break inside the Par-La-Ville Gardens on Queen Street).
Amid the eye-candy viewing atop spots such as the Anglican Cathedral and Point Pleasant -- and the must-see "bird cage" near Queen Street where Bermuda-shorts-wearing constables direct the traffic -- is all the history that made this colorful and somewhat bustling town what it is today. Founded in 1790, Hamilton became the capitol of Bermuda in 1815 because of its central location on the island, which the Colonists believed offered more room to expand. The port city was named after Henry Hamilton, a British Lieutenant Governor and the island's governor (1788 - 1794), whose ancestry traced all the way back to Mary Queen of Scots. Maybe that explains why the passionate loyalty to England is way more than just fish and chips and cricket games.Among Hamilton's other highlights? Golfing is a big deal, for sure, and beaches are conveniently close by. You'll be tempted to buy gorgeous porcelain and cashmere till the cows come home, and the nightlife's not bad either -- but remember, we're comparing it to the rest of Bermuda, not Vegas or Miami. That being said, at 6 p.m. on Wednesdays (when most of the cruise ships that call at Bermuda are docked at one or another of the island's ports), Hamilton's Front Street becomes party central; the street's closed off to traffic and suddenly the sidewalks are lined with food concession stands, live music and plenty of dancing. Boogie 'til 3 a.m. any night at After Hours, The Deep or Splash.
The Bermuda Aquarium, Natural History Museum & Zoo (North Shore Road, daily from 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. North Shore Rd.) features the requisite large collection of tropical marine fish, turtles, harbor seals and other forms of sea life. Exhibits range from the geological development of Bermuda and deep-sea exploration to humpback whales. There's a huge seven-foot moray eel whose head is bigger than a human's. Check out the North Rock Exhibit -- a 140,000-gallon tank filled with a Nemo look-alikes. The first living coral exhibit on this scale in the world is here, too.
The Bermuda Arts Centre (Freeport Road, daily 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.). Opened by the late Princess Margaret in the early 1980s, you'll find works by a gaggle of local artists. In-residence artists include a cedar sculptor, a wood carver and a jewelry designer. Of course, most everything is for sale.
The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (Crow Lane, daily 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.) is the world's first scientific institute to focus entirely on deep-water exploration and research. The 3,000-plus shell collection is bar none, the world's best. Wait'll you see the shrunken human heads showing gruesome effects of deep-water pressure -- and leave time to hop aboard the world's first simulated "deepwater submersible" down to the 12,500-ft. base of the Bermuda Sea Mount. Try to have lunch here at La Coquille.
Fort Hamilton (Happy Valley Road, Monday - Friday, 9:30 a.m. - 5 p.m.) is one of those places that really does take you back in time. The sights are music to the eyes from this 19th-century fort that stretches practically forever. Show up at noon on Mondays to be regaled by bagpipers and dancers at a Skirling Ceremony. Ask the on-site Victorian Tea Room to set up a picnic lunch for you. The basket includes a blanket and umbrella.
Afternoon tea is a must -- and top choice is the stylish silver service inside Heritage Court at the Fairmont Hamilton (daily from 2:30 - 5:30 p.m.). Oh, the clotted cream with the warm maple walnut scones! The extensive (and tad pricey) tea menu options even include one for kids replete with homemade peanut butter. A fine second choice (and cheaper) option is the Botanic Tea Room inside Trimingham's (cash only).
Bermuda is a major destination for duffers - the island boasts the most golf courses per square mile of any other place on earth. Hint: Golf balls are astronomically expensive. Bring your own. Among those near Hamilton:
Port Royal Golf Course: Excellent 18-hole par 71 Robert Trent Jones-designed course. You can book tee times up to seven days in advance. Green fees $139. 441-234-4653, Southampton.
Riddell's Bay Golf & Country Club: First 18-hole par 70 course in Bermuda. Designed by Deveraux Emmett (Washington, D.C. area's Congressional Club). Private, but allows visitors. You can book tee times up to 24 hours in advance. Green fees $145. 441-238-1060, Warwick.
Fairmont Southampton: An 18-hole par 54 Ted Robinson-designed course. Carts are mandatory and included in the green fees. You can book up to seven days in advance. Green fees $70, cart included. 441-238-0446, Southampton.
Mid-Ocean Club: The best you'll come across. Rated one of the best in the world. C.B. Macdonald-designed 18-hole par 71. Private, but allows visitors Mondays, Wednesday, Fridays. You can book tee times up to 24 hours in advance. Greens fees $210. 441-293 0330, St. George's.
Bermuda Golf Academy: The only mini-course on the island, it has a 320-yard driving range. Daily 9 a.m. - 10:30 p.m. 441-238-8800, Southampton. $5 - $6 for a bucket of 40 balls; $10 for mini-golf (adults) $8 for children under 12.
St. George's Golf Club: Wonderful sight lines on an 18-hole par 62 Robert Trent-designed course. This was one of the last designed by Robert Trent Jones Senior prior to his retirement. You can book tee times up to seven days in advance. Green fees $90. 441-297-1836, St. George's.
Ocean View Golf Club: Views that can drive you to distraction. A 9-hole par 35 course. You can book tee times up to 14 days in advance. Green fees $93. 441-295-2093. Devonshire.
Tucker's Point Golf Club: Challenging 18-hole, par 70 Roger Rulewich newly-designed course. Incredible views. Private, but allows visitors. You can book up to 48 hours in advance. Greens fees $195. 441-298-6959, St. George's. Spittal Pond Nature Reserve (South Shore Road, open daily from dawn to dusk) is Bermuda's largest wildlife sanctuary -- it attracts about 25 species of waterfowl from November to May. Absolutely consider the very scenic mile-long walk past an amazing variety of flowers and trees. Don't miss Jeffrey's Hole, a cave named for an escaped slave who supposedly hid out here.
A private home until 1951, the circa-1710 Vermont Museum (Verdmont Lane in Smith's, Tuesday - Saturday, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m.), offers a glimpse at residential life on Bermuda from the 18th century. The house pretty much remains as it was in 1710. Much of the furnishings are made from cedar (the rich fragrance is lovely). Take a look at the china coffee service said to be a gift from Napoleon to President Madison (he never received it since the ship carrying it was seized by a Bermudian privateer). There are eight fireplaces, indoor shutters and a grand stairwell leading to the attic. Walk along the brick path through the formal gardens for excellent ocean views.
The beaches are small when compared to most found in the U.S. -- ranging from as little as 15 yards to about half a mile. Set your mind on idle and let the sun go to your head on pink-tinged sands that seem to melt into the sea. Note: Bermuda's Guide to Beaches and Transportation is free at all visitor centers and most hotels.
Shelly Bay: Shallow and shaded (a rarity). Great place for kids. Umbrella rentals, changing room, snacks. Hamilton.
Elbow Beach: Swimming and body surfing are the draws here, but the crowds, not so much. Restrooms, snacks. Paget.
Horseshoe Bay Beach: What can we say? Clear water, pink sand and a really hot social spot. Watch the kids, the undertow can be strong. Umbrella rentals, changing room, snacks. Southampton.
Mangrove Bay: Once a smuggler's cove, there are two beaches, but only one is public. The calm waters for are perfect for kids and non-swimmers. A favored spot for landscape artists. No changing rooms or restrooms. Near Somerset Village on the North Shore.
Somerset Long Bay: Quiet, low-key, shallow and dotted with plenty of coral bluffs. Restrooms. Sandys Parish.Tobacco Bay: Great snorkeling. You can see families of squid -- and even octopus. Gear rentals, umbrella rentals, changing room, snacks. St. George's.
Achilles Bay: Small beach that's great snorkeling and windsurfing. Not as crowded as Tobacco Bay. Gear rentals, changing room, snacks. St. George's.
Clearwater Beach and Park: A 36-acre great-for-kids site that includes nature trails. Reid Clearwater Cafe is a good bet for snacks and light meals. Gear rentals for snorkeling, as well as chair, lounges, towels and rafts. Changing rooms, showers and restrooms. Cooper's Island, off St. David's Island.
Church Bay: Off the beaten path-and superb for snorkeling. Rent what you need elsewhere. No changing rooms or restrooms. Southampton.
You'll find plenty of traditional dishes like fish chowder laced with black rum and hot peppers, hashed shark, and conch anything in Hamilton. And definitely order anything made with their fabulous Bermuda onions.
Harley's at the Fairmount Hamilton Princess (Tuesday - Sunday noon - 2:30 p.m. Fairmont Hamilton Princess, Pitt Bay Rd) is a gem. We love their Caesar salad with lobster and the creamy spinach with the crispy crunchy Bermuda onions.
At Fresco's (daily noon-2:30 p.m. Chancery Lane), you'll think the ship just tied up in Morocco. Award-winning, these folks also run Aqua at the Ariel Sands. Take a chair or a cushion - and dig in. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $60.
La Coquille (daily noon - 2:30 p.m. 40 Crow Lane) is Paris-worthy. Don't skip the pan-fried foie gras and caramelized pears. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $30.
At the Lobster Pot (Daily 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Bermudiana Rd.), the fish chowder is so good, tourists haul quartfuls back home. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $35.
Port O'Call (Monday-Friday noon - 2:30 p.m. Front St.): Go fish. Brilliantly prepared and worth pursuing. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $28.
Hog Penny (Monday - Saturday 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m. Burnaby Hill St.) is the pub of choice for conch chowder or bangers and mash. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $25.
Waterloo House (open daily, noon - 2:30 p.m., 100 Pitts Bay Rd, Hamilton) offers waterfront dining. If you can't make lunch, go for cocktails at sunset. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $28.
Monte Carlo (Monday-Friday noon - 2:30 p.m. 3 Victoria St.) is a great spot for people watching and bouillabaisse. Oh--- the white chocolate cr?me brulee. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $30.
At Barracuda Grill (open daily 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m. Burnaby Hill) start with the oysters Rockefeller and have their perfectly grilled rack of lamb that is accompanied by a wild mushroom risotto. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $100. Hamilton.
The Newport Room (dinner only, daily, 6:30 p.m. - 10 p.m., jacket required, Fairmont Southampton, Shore Rd) is formal and fabulous. Hope that the duck breast with a cinnamon and fig sauce is on the menu the day you show up. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $55.
At Aqua (daily from 6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. Ariel Sands, Devonshire), try the pan-fried scallops. They're divine. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $110.
More than three centuries old, the Waterlot Inn (dinner only daily 6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m., jackets required, Fairmont Southhampton Princess), the gravlox is dressed up with a pineapple-ginger salsa. Per person cost for three courses including wine will run about $55.