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Bucharest (Photo:Augustin Lazaroiu/Shutterstock)
4.0 / 5.0
Cruise Critic Editor Rating

By Cruise Critic Staff

Port of Bucharest

The word on Bucharest is that it's ugly, gritty, grimy -- and parts of it are. But don't make do with first impressions. As our guide aptly put it: "New-old-beautiful-ugly. This is what Bucharest is."

About Bucharest


Pro

Bucharest is a complex city with a fascinating history evident in its historic center and Communist landmarks

Con

When walking, beware of pickpockets and stray dogs -- both can be a problem in Bucharest

Bottom Line

This city is not shiny and packaged up for tourist -- it's authentic, unique and well worth a visit


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Energetic, hectic and just two decades out of Communist rule, this textured capital city of 2.2 million people is an acquired taste, and it's still in the process of defining itself. Just as Romania has been touted as the New Italy, Bucharest is being hailed as a sophisticated but less pricey alternative to Budapest and Belgrade.

The overarching signature of Bucharest today is the intersection of Communism and capitalism: Buses carrying tourists routinely pull up to the massive Palace of Parliament, built by Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu as a tribute to himself. (More than one-sixth of the city was leveled to accommodate his indulgence.) The endless grey blocks of apartments that rose during Communist times are still in evidence, but so are outlets for Ferrari and Maserati, Hard Rock Cafe, ING, Starbucks and McDonald's. And the national sense of humor that Romanians quietly relied upon to help them survive Ceausescu's dictatorship is out in the open now. Locals, for instance, call the Judicial Ministry "the laundry": where politicians go in dirty and come out clean.

Located between the Carpathian foothills and the Danube River, Bucharest in its golden age -- the late 19th and early 20th centuries -- was known throughout Europe as "Little Paris." Royals ruled at the time, and the city was famous for its elegant architecture, grand thoroughfares and cultural elite. There are still some gorgeous neo-Classical buildings that date back to Bucharest's heyday, but World War II bombings and two earthquakes altered much of the skyline.

A member of the European Union since 2007, modern-day Bucharest is trying hard to regain its fallen stature as a European capital. In a recent travel piece in The Guardian, the British newspaper calls Bucharest "Paris eaten then spat out." Get real. Bucharestians make no apologies for their city -- and they shouldn't. Just like its residents, it's a place with a big personality and a huge heart.

With its elegant, historic city center, emerging cafe society, architectural high points and proximity to lovely Transylvania, Bucharest has a lot to offer tourists. That is why many companies book their Danube River cruise passengers on Bucharest (and nearby Transylvania) pre- or post-trips, even though passengers, depending on their itineraries, will embark or disembark their river ships in Ruse, Bulgaria, a few hours away. Buses transport them between Bucharest and the Danube. Ruse, for its part, has little to recommend it.

Where You're Docked

Bucharest serves as a transfer destination for Danube River cruises. Passengers frequently overnight for one or two nights before journeying across the border to Bulgaria to meet their ships.

Good to Know

Pickpockets troll the public transportation system during the peak hours of 7 to 9 a.m. and 4 to 5 p.m., so use caution. Bucharest also has a severe problem with stray dogs -- tens of thousands of them. It's best to steer clear if you happen upon one. Also, Bucharestians joke that there are no traffic rules in the city, only traffic suggestions. Take them at their word when doing something as simple as crossing the street.

Currency & Best Way to Get Money

Even though Romania is a member of the European Union, it still uses the ron, also known as the leu. The plural form is lei. For a currency conversion calculator, visit www.oanda.com or www.xe.com.

ATM's, or bancomats, tend to be the least expensive way to obtain local currency. Banks are open weekdays from 9 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. Avoid private exchange offices, as they tend to be expensive.

Language

Romanian, of course. English is not widely understood, although it is spoken in finer hotels and restaurants. It is also taught in schools, so younger folks will be more conversant than their elders.

Shopping

Like any big city, Bucharest has malls and department stores, and you'll find all manner of stores on Calea Victoriei, the historic thoroughfare. But the best selection of Romanian souvenirs -- folk art, religious icons, sheepskin vests, ceramics, woven rugs, embroidered table runners -- can be found at gift shops at the Museum of the Romanian Peasant or the National Village Museum. Romanian wines from the Prahova Valley, widely available in wine shops and grocery stores, are also a great buy.