Food and Drink in Dubrovnik
The cuisine of Croatia's coastal regions relies heavily on traditional Mediterranean flavors -- gelaterias and Italian al fresco trattorias abound in Dubrovnik. For more typical Croatian fare, look for dishes made with fresh, local seafood.
Enjoy lunch with the locals -- Spaghetteria Toni (Nikole Bozidarevica 14; 385-20-323-134) and Pizzeria Castro (Gunduliceva Poljana 5) are two favored restaurants that feature yummy pizza and pasta dishes. For something with a bit more Croatian flair, look for pies topped with local cured ham.
Seafood Galore -- Lokanda Peskarija (Na Ponti bb; 385-20-324-750) and Kamenice (Gunduliceva Poljana 8; 385-20-323-682) both offer outdoor seating and family-style portions.
Proto (Siroka 1) has no view but makes up for it with outstanding dishes; try any of its grilled or fried fish dishes or the seafood risotto. Want a view? Just outside the Pile Gate is Restaurant Nautika (Brsalje 3).
Beaches in Dubrovnik
Best Beach for Tourists: Banje, a pebble beach, is located a few minutes' walk east of the Ploce Gate to the Old Town. There's also a resort-style beach with nice golden sand and a cocktail bar about a mile from the gates and below the Excelsior Hotel (Frana Supila 12).
Best Beach for the Sun Bather: Locals gravitate more towards the smaller, more private beaches like the Lapad peninsula. They sun themselves on flat rocks that hug the wall and access the Adriatic via a flight of steps into the water (best for strong swimmers, by the way). Note the "no nudists" policy crudely scrawled on a wall at the entrance.
Secluded Beach: One beach that does not have a "no nudist" policy can be found on the Lokrum Island. Ferries from Old Port leave every thirty minutes and cost 35 Kune roundtrip.
Don't Miss in Dubrovnik
Historic Stuff: Begin at the entrance to the walled city -- the Pile Gate. Among the highlights is the circa-14th-century Franciscan Monastery (Placa 2). Make sure you check out the adjoining pharmacy -- opened in 1391, it's the third oldest functioning pharmacy in Europe (and yes, you can still buy aspirin). The Dominican Monastery (Sveti Dominika 4) dates back to the same century. The Rector's Palace (Pred Dvorom 3) was the government seat in the 15th century; now you'll find a museum with Baroque paintings and historic artifacts. The Synagogue (Zudioska 5) is Europe's second-oldest Sephardic synagogue. Other highlights include the city's cathedral (Poljana M. Orzica) and the Fort of St. John Maritime Museum and Aquarium (Ul Od Margarite and the waterfront).
Cafe Scene: For people-watching, sip a coffee or cocktail at any of the city's numerous sidewalk cafes. For a waterfront view check out Gradska Kavana (Pred Dvorum); it also has plaza-side tables. Bar Nonenina, the former Hemingway Bar, still known as such by most locals (Pred Dvoram 4), has comfy wicker chairs and more than 180 adult beverages from which to choose -- try the mojito or the Croatian beer Karlovacko.
Walking the Wall: The stone walls that completely encircle the city -- as much as 81 feet high and 1.5 miles around -- have stairs at two points. The easiest to navigate is just inside the Pile Gate, on the left. Views are breathtaking; admire the expanse of the mighty Adriatic, the over-the-terra-cotta-rooftop town, and even peek into the backyards of some of the private homes and apartments that line the edges of the walled city. Note: Steep climbing and numerous stairs are involved. It's a great workout. There's a small fee, payable in local currency only. (At the time of our visit, the cost was 150 Kune for adults.)
Nature Lovers: For those who enjoy the great outdoors, Dubrovnik offers a variety of places to play, aside from its gorgeous beaches. Adriatic Kayak Tours (Zrinsko Frankopanska 6; 385-20-312-770) is more than your average paddling trip down the river. Adventures include sea kayaking, cycling and snorkeling trips from Brsecine. Not feeling so athletic? Hop a ferry (every 30 minutes throughout the day from Old Port; 40 Kune roundtrip) to Lokrum Island, and enjoy unique, abundant subtropical plants in the nature reserve.
The Museum of Modern Art. (Put Frana Supila 23; 385-20-426-590) Located near Banja's Beach, this museum welcomes you in from the sun to admire pieces by Vlaho Bukovac and other Croatian artists.