Food and Drink in Cologne
German food has a reputation for being hearty and somewhat stodgy, with an emphasis on meat ("Wurst" or sausages, in particular), potatoes (Germany is one of the world's top potato-consuming countries) and bread. There is considerable regional variation, with the culinary influences of the country's international neighbors reflected in local dishes. Thus, in the Rhineland region, you'll pick up hints of Belgium and the Netherlands in dishes like Halver Hahn (a giant slab of Dutch gouda with a Roggelchen or rye roll) and Dicke Bunne mit Speck (boiled white beans with hefty boiled bacon slices on top).
Cologne boasts a decent selection of international restaurants in addition to traditional ones, but you shouldn't miss enjoying at least one locally brewed Kolsch (beer) and some nibbles in one of the city's old brewery taps in the Old Town, preferably sitting in the sunshine on the Rhinegarten embankment.
The brewery taps in the Old Town and along the Rhinegarten embankment are all atmospheric, if touristy, and serve traditional Rhineland dishes. They are more expensive than similar establishments located deeper in the city, such as the excellent Paffgen (see Don't Miss). The pick of the bunch there is Fruh am Dom, located just behind the cathedral for more than 100 years. The property now comprises the traditional brewery, a cozy Keller (bar in the cellar), attractive beer garden and the contemporary HOF 18 Restaurant. Classic local cuisine -- such as "Himmel und Ad mit Flonz" (fried black pudding with mashed potatoes, apple sauce and fried onions) and "Reibekuchen" (flat fried potato cakes served with a variety of sweet or savory toppings) -- is served. (Am Hof 12-18. Tel. 0221/2613-215. The brewery and bar are open Monday to Sunday, 8 a.m. to midnight; HOF 18 Restaurant is open Monday to Saturday, noon to midnight; and Sundays, noon to 10 p.m.)
Brauhaus im Walfisch is a charming restaurant located in the Old Town near the Heumarkt in an atmospheric gabled brewery, which dates back to 1626. The food is consistently good, with a wide selection of brewery classics, succulent steaks and an entire section of the menu dedicated to Schnitzels (breaded cutlets). Portions are generous and prices very reasonable. (Salzgasse 13. Tel. 0221/2577-879. Open Monday to Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight; Fridays from 3 p.m. to midnight; weekends from 11 a.m. to midnight.)
The charming Stapelhauschen (the little pile house), located on the Rhinegarten embankment, is one of the few medieval houses in Cologne to have survived World War II, and it dates back to 1100. Today, the popular wine tavern and restaurant serves imaginative local dishes, such as poached trout with parsley potatoes, Pfifferling (mushroom) risotto and Rheinischer Sauerbraten (marinated and roasted meat) with almonds, raisins and potato dumplings. (Fischmarkt 1-3. Tel. 0221/272-7777. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.)
The Hanse Stube, located in the family-owned Excelsior Hotel Ernst, is consistently rated amongst Cologne's best restaurants for good reason. The tasteful decor (mahogany paneling and furniture, cream soft furnishings and pieces of original art) provides the perfect backdrop for faultless service and exquisite modern French cuisine. Signature dishes include quail filled with chanterelles on truffled summer vegetables and port wine jus and fried scallops and jelly of saffron and sepia. (Trankgasse 1-5 / Domplatz. Tel. 0221-2701. Open Monday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to midnight.)
Le Moissonier has been Cologne's favorite French brasserie for 25 years, serving classic stalwarts (moules and steak frites), as well as innovative dishes like octopus fritters, braised rabbit and calf sweetbreads, and an unbeatable cheeseboard. The French owners are as passionate about wine as they are about food, so prepare for a feast. (Krefelder Strasse 25. Tel. 0221/729-479. Open Tuesday to Thursday, 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday, 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. to midnight.)
Don't Miss in Cologne
The Kolner Dom, Cologne's imposing cathedral, dates back to the 13th century and, as recognized by its UNESCO world heritage site status, is one of the world's finest examples of Gothic architecture. The biggest cathedral in Germany, the Kolner Dom is home to the Three Magi shrine, which holds the reliquaries of the Three Magi, brought to Cologne from Milan in 1164. It's also home to the Gero Cross (Northern Europe's earliest monumental cross, dating to 1000) and a 300-ton modern organ. The Dom's intricate towers became a haunting symbol of Cologne's survival of the Allied bombing raids during World War II, being one of the very few structures to survive. It is possible (and worth the effort) to climb the 509 stairs to the top of the south tower for stupendous views across the city and the Rhine. (Entry costs 3 euros.) If you're lucky, your visit might coincide with Night Fever, when the Dom is open to the public from 6 p.m. until midnight on the third Saturday of each month. Every visitor is given a candle to light, creating a sea of tiny flames at the base of the altar, and invited to enjoy the peace.
Enjoy a "Stangen" (0.2-liter glass) of local Kolsch beer at the authentic Paffgen Kolsch brewery, bar and restaurant. Kolsch has been brewed on these premises since 1884, and the same family still brews and serves its beers in this atmospheric spot, located on Friesenstrasse, just off the Heumarkt square. Not only can you sample the beer, but you can also enjoy a tour of the brewery itself.
There are no fewer than 12 beautifully preserved Romanesque churches to be found within Cologne's ancient city walls, more than any other German city. If you don't have time to see all of them, be sure to visit St. Gereon's Basilica -- a beautiful and unusual Roman Catholic church built on the remains of (still visible) Roman walls -- which boasts the largest dome built in the West between the erection of Istanbul's Hagia Sophia in the 6th century and the Duomo of Florence in the 15th century.
Shopaholics should head directly for the pedestrianized Hohe Strasse, which is lined with boutiques, international high street stores and cafes. Be sure to visit the celebrated Cologne chocolatier Stollwerck and Leonhard Tietz, the flagship store of the upmarket German department store Galeria Kaufhof.Attend a concert at the Kolner Philarmonie. Cologne's impressive concert hall is consistently rated among Germany's top five and offers a selection of world-class performances from diverse international artists. The annual Summer Festival, which runs from July to August, has been running for more than 25 years, with music and dance performances in venues across the city.
Visit the NS -- Dokumentationszentrum (Museum of the History of National Socialism); located in the former Gestapo (secret police) prison, which operated in Cologne from December 1935 to March 1945. The permanent exhibition deals with political and social life in Cologne during Nazi rule and makes for a deeply moving experience. (Tel. 0221/2212-6332. Appellhofplatz 23-25. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.)
Take a ride on the Kolner Seilbahn (Cologne's gondola) for unbeatable views of the city, including the cathedral and the Rhine snaking its way through. The gondola operates from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. from mid-March to early November, with special nighttime rides offered on select nights. The gondola is located at 180 Riehler Strasse, by the zoo -- it's a 30-minute walk along the left bank of the Rhine from the cathedral, and you can walk back on the opposite bank, through the attractive Rhine Park. Alternatively, take the number 18 tram or 140 bus to the Zoo/Flora stop.