Riviera del Pacifico: Standing inside this elegant Spanish/Moorish building, one can imagine Bing Crosby crooning to Xavier Cugat's Orchestra. Originally owned by boxing champ Jack Dempsey, this former casino catered to Americans during the Prohibition. Today, it's a cultural center, used for weddings and receptions and mariachi and dance performances.

Mercado de Mariscos (Malecon at Av Alvarado): Admire the day's catch, including yellowtail, tuna, albacore and marlin, at Ensenada's popular outdoor fish market by the sportfishing pier.

Avenida Lopez Mateos and Boulevard Costero: These two parallel streets near the waterfront are lined with shops, from Mexican liquor and duty free perfume to woven blankets, leather goods, pottery, and silver jewelry. Among the nicest for Taxco silver jewelry are Los Castillo and Mario's Silver Shop (Lopez Mateos 815 & 1090). For black pottery of Oaxaca, there's Colores de Mexico (Lopez Mateos 1094) and for Mata Ortiz pottery, Galleria de Perez Meillon (Centro Artesanal, Blvd. Costero 1094).

Plaza Civica: Known locally as Three Heads Park, this shady plaza features giant, gold painted busts of three of Mexico's most revered heroes -- Miguel Hidalgo, Benito Juarez and Venustiano Carranza.

Dive, snorkel or kayak the sea caves and sea lion rookeries at Punta Bunda near La Bufadora are an excellent spot for water sports. Dale's La Bufadora Dive Center, a Canadian operator, takes divers out on three boats. Five miles offshore are the two Islas de Todos Santos, where strong winter surf attracts professional surfers.

Watch gray whales: From December to March, these magnificent leviathans pass through Ensenada on their annual migration to and from the warm Baja lagoons. Half-day whale-watching excursions leave from the sportfishing pier (Malecon at Av Alvarado). Sea birds, sea lions and harbor seals are an added plus. In addition to trips by Gordo's Sport Fishing and Sergio's Sportfishing Center, the Science Museum sponsors guided tours.