Akureyri was a stunner of a town with abundant art (I was even lucky enough to catch the opening of a local artist’s show), myriad bars and restaurants (Guinness on tap… yay!) and a thermal pool complex that was the perfect tonic for a cool mid-summer’s day. The architecture in Akureyri was different to Djúpivogur and Seyðisfjörður (and - we were to learn - to the rest of Iceland). Instead of corrugated iron, the houses were clad in pressed iron plates. Loved Akureyri. Oh, and the Botanical Gardens. Small, but stunning.

This is a sleepy little village of 500 or so sleepy inhabitants. It was supremely boring. I went in search of art, and thanks to little or no signposting missed most of what I tried to see.

If there was anything interesting about Grundarfjörður, then I missed it. Having said that the locals were lovely, engaging people. Again I visited the thermal springs (I love them) and this town’s were outdoors. There was simply no better way to spend a morning than soaking in hot water looking out over the extraordinary landscape of the fiord that the town was in.

We struck outstanding in Ísafjörður and this made for a pleasant stroll around. The old part of town was (once out of the port area) quite nice, but in the absence of any cultural attractions that appealed, I went to the local swimming pool. It was okay, but nothing special to recommend it. Where Ísafjörður shone was in the natural landscape of the fiord which was, in a word, breathtaking.

Reykjavík charmed the pants off me. Plenty of fellow travellers told me that one day was more than enough in Reykjavík, but I could have spent innumerable evenings sitting outside the Bravo pub enjoying the people-watching. Icelanders are delightful folk, and they know how to brew a beer (the Einstök Arctic Pale Ale is my new favourite drop in the world), and make licorice (tick), and they don’t mind a sheet or two of corrugated iron it has to be said. What’s not to like?

Whatever I wrote about Djúpivogur can be replicated here, except that it has 700 or so residents. Oh my stars. It’s only saving grace was having a craft brewery. But as I returned to the ship (after a freezing 35 minute wait for a tender), I thought to myself: Iceland and I are not going to be friends. I think I was using the words “boring”, “dull” and “comatose” a lot. This opinion, I’m pleased to report, did change…!

Torshavn was delightful. Public art abounded and the older part of town was beautiful to wander around and take photos. We had nice weather, and I managed to pay the most I have ever paid for coffee in my life at this port.

What a gorgeous town Tromso is. Lovely architecture, laid-back vibe and some excellent coffee houses. Would return in a heartbeat.