We enjoyed the National Tile Museum in Lisboa (our second visit), an underrated hidden gem. The museum is slightly off the beaten path, but highly recommended, especially for the magnificent panorama of Lisboa – a 75± -foot-long panel of more than 1,300 tiles, created in 1738 before the 1755 earthquake destroyed most of the city. Many surviving historic monuments can be found. Our tour didn’t include that floor as the elevator wasn’t working, but those who trekked up the long staircases said it was worth the effort. I specifically chose this excursion since, as an artist, I could create my own “azulejo” – a unique experience. You can craft your own design or choose from a selection of stencils offered by the staff. It’s not as easy as it appears – you need to use a lot of paint to achieve vibrant color. The tiles are then finished by museum staff and delivered to the ship during the week. We also highly recommend the Belem tours. Central Lisboa is very walkable with charming funiculares and trams for the hills, but transportation is required to get to Belem.

Mateus is a beautiful Baroque palace we enjoyed many years ago. We had the ship and crew to ourselves while all the other guests participated in the tour. On the return journey, we did opt to learn the art of port blending at Fonseca’s Quinta do Panascal. Up a winding contributary river valley in a lovely hillside manor, four of us learned just how port is blended from different years’ harvests. We then blended our own and created our own labels. We also recommend the excursion to Lamego, almost a mini-version of Braga, for those who do not elect the post-cruise extension.

Salamanca is a beautiful small city dripping with Spanish charm. It is a long, winding drive from the ship’s docking at Barca d’Alva but so worth the trip. We were pleased that Viking now offers a “leisure” guided walking tour for those who wish to see the highlights at a slower pace.

Porto: Our fourth visit to this ever-changing but very historic city, it is a joy to see how a somewhat down-trodden city is rebuilding and preserving its culture and working-class character. An oft repeated saying in Portugal is "Coimbra studies, Braga prays, Lisbon parties…and Porto works." After disembarkation, we settled into Gaia for another two days to re-explore and found beautifully restored architecture, more pedestrianized streets, and new attractions that highlight this “second city.” On previous trips we dined lavishly at Vinum at Graham’s port lodge. We passed this time after the very filling lunch but still recommend it. Be prepared for a “port high” by the end of the evening; a fortified wine, it does pack a punch.

Most of the excursions in Porto are offered at the end of the cruise. There are several from which to choose, a good example of how Viking tries to cater to different desires. The only one we chose was the trip to Quinta da Aveleda since we became enamored with vinho verde on our second trip when we stayed at an historic 18th-century quinta known for its excellent vinho verde production. The drive also allowed us another opportunity to view the countryside we love so much! Aveleda is an architecturally delightful estate with extensive gardens.

We would not call “Porto on Foot” a moderate excursion – it’s more like a demanding hike as both Gaia and Porto are built into very steep sides of the river. Try to see the highlights and definitely opt for the water taxi back. We did that after the cruise was over and it’s quite an experience riding against the Douro’s current. “Guimarães” is another lovely excursion. We loved the city both times we were there.