I have used Hurtigruten once before about 10 years ago (classic passage North) and enjoyed it. I chose this trip on the Fram based on that experience, reputation and price - but primarily the itinerary, which gave more time on South Georgia. Getting to Ushuaia and back was a bit of a faff, using their chartered LATAM aircraft, but it is hard to see a viable alternative. Once on the ship, I immediately felt at home. Having read that she was about to undergo a refit, I expected her to be a bit tatty, but no - she was pretty much immaculate. Clean, neat and well presented, with tasteful art work and décor. I only hope they do not lose the delightful ambiance of the public areas during the refit in a rush to be trendy. My cabin (328) was fine for one, but would have been a bit of a logistic challenge for two I think; but others managed fine. It was kept clean throughout the trip by excellent staff. Food was good overall, with excellent buffet breakfasts and lunches covering all tastes. On shore trip days the evening meal was a buffet, but on sea days it was a set piece evening meal with limited choice for main course. Sometimes it worked well but other times I fancied neither option. It also took ages to serve. But, we were there for the scenery and wildlife. which we had in abundance. The weather was brilliant almost all of the time and the truly excellent expedition team got us ashore looking at things twice a day, most days. When they could not (due to swell usually)there was always a plan B, such as cruising around a glacier. The grand finale was crossing the Polar Circle. Altogether, I thought it was an excellent cruise and very good value for money