This was my 3rd Hurtigruten Cruise in 3 years and I loved the Nordkapp and Fram. The Nordlys was a huge disappointment in almost all categories. The cabins are small, but that is expected. Worse yet, my cabin had a terrible sewage smell the first two days and a lingering sewage smell throughout the cruise. The cleaning crew indicated there was an issue. The restaurant staff, except for Pow, was unhappy and the service was greatly lacking. It was difficult to even get water. The breakfast and lunch buffets were not varied much. Also, the food was often not replenished and it was difficult to track down staff. On multiple occasions, there were no dinner plates available. During the buffets, tables were not cleaned well, leaving dirty rubber placemats and food on chairs. Everything is now an up-sell. On the Nordkapp coastal voyage, we had king crab one evening...it is now $999 NOK or over $100. Our farewell dinner was pollack and nothing special. A dining room staff member said, “Nothing is free anymore on Hurtigruten!” The expedition staff was great. However, the tours are exceptionally expensive and now even the hikes are outrageous in price. I have an expensive Antarctic Cruise booked first February 2021 and I am greatly concerned that my once favorite cruise line will be another huge disappointment on a once in a life time trip!