My husband and I took the 12 days Norwegian Coastal Voyage hoping to see the Northern Lights. I love the ship—it is just the right size, small but still comfortable. Our cabin 621, even with an obstructed view, was wonderful. You could actually see a little land, sea and sky. The bed was firm with a wonderful down comforter. A lot of storage space, including under the bed. The bathroom was more than adequate with a HEATED floor! The breakfast and lunch buffet had a lot of food—I just got tired of it after 12 days. Dinner was 3 courses with no choice unless you had a dietary concern. Some dinners were OK, others not so much. Wait and cabin staff were great. The daily talks about Norway (Sami, whale hunting, etc.) were very mechanical. We only took two excursions (no others appealed to us)—the fjord one had breathtaking scenery; the Icelandic pony ride was in the dark. I’m an experienced horsewoman and felt a little weird—take it only in daylight. You can usually get off the ship at least once a day for a little while and walk or take a “Hurtigruten” bus into town if you don’t take an excursion. However, on our bus ride into Kirkenes, the bus driver failed to pick us up and we started to run to the ship since we only had 15 minutes until departure. I flagged down a public bus driver who kindly drove us to the ship with only 3 minutes to spare. We were not happy. When we reported this, the excursion manager made light of it and defended the bus driver! We took the roundtrip cruise which gave us more time in the Arctic Circle; however, we would recommend that you take the northern bound one way as it did get a little boring. We only saw a meager show of Northern Lights since the weather was mostly overcast but Hurtigruten can’t control this. And they can’t control other overly pushy passengers—my only real complaint.