I have been aiming for years to do a river cruise on the Rhone and Saone, with the historical and artistic connections of Arles and Avignon in particular high on my bucket list. I had also been noticing the attractions of the new Emerald line. Suddenly a solo-traveller special was dropped into my lap by Premier Cruises, and I grabbed the opportunity.
The ship -- 15 months old with up to 138 passengers -- was even more elegant than I anticipated. From Captain to Cruise Director, the staff was delightful, and both food and service were first rate. I also loved the pool, and took full advantage of my few opportunities to use it. Few because I'm one of those passengers who cannot stand to miss a single excursion! And these were all top notch, with terrific guides and richly rewarding destinations!
Unlike many river cruise lines, Emerald does not dictate restaurant seating or tour groups -- you pick your own. This is refreshing in some respects, but though you meet many more people that way, the number you get to actually know is far fewer. For a solo traveller, that proved a little disappointing.
Since the Liberte is a three-storey ship, the two single cabins are of course below the water line with a very small window.
While smaller than some single cabins, mine was also better designed than most. The one puzzle was that there were no outlets in the washroom, and no mirrors near the outlets -- making shaving and hairdrying pretty awkward.
But I don't go on cruises to spend time in my cabin! And staff was quick to comply with any request (eg., my need for a firmer pillow!).
The city tour that included a hike uphill to the watchtowers was terrific! (However, Tain l'Hermitage across the river was not worth exploring -- I would sooner have spent the additional afternoon in Avignon)
As the basic city tour did not include the interior of the papal palace -- one of my top priorities -- I left after an hour, and, with the tour guide's directions, did manage a whirlwind tour of the palace. I do wish we had spent more time in Avignon.
However, the afternoon optional excursion to Pont du Gard and Uges was not to be missed.
The basic city tour of Arles was lovely, with one of the most enjoyable guides on the trip.
And the optional excursion to fantastic Les Baux was not to be missed (though I did not discover the amazing staircases up and down the ruined fortress at the top of the city until the last minute; they should definitely be pointed out by the guides, as they are more fun and the views are better than almost anything else in the week!)