My wife and I visited Russia in 1998 and wanted to see the changes in the past 20 years. We were blown away! Infrastructure construction (great roads, utilities, etc.) plus the number of western (European and US) retail outlets and manufacturing plants were the most noticeable. On our last visit, skies were smoky gray most of the time so we were impressed at how clear the air was in the big cities (St Petersburg and Moscow) this time. Also, even though traffic volume had increased tremendously, we were amazed at how smooth and orderly things seemed to be (lot less honking and sirens than in the US). The Viking shore excursions were well designed and almost all were properly described (including level of activity) so there were no surprises. Guides (for the most part) were knowledgeable and personable. Finally, the Viking Akun crew and staff made us feel right at home from Day One and throughout our voyage. The Chef and his staff prepared a sumptuous array of locally-inspired and continental cuisine; dining areas never felt crowded; and the wait staff's familiarity with ingredients of every menu selection helped me avoid food allergens. If you enjoy river cruising - put "Rivers of the Tsars" on your bucket list. If you've never done river cruising, there's no time like the present or itinerary like this to begin.