The prospect of seeing the Northern Lights was the main reason for choosing this cruise and, to be fair, we did see them. Unfortunately the experience was spoilt by poor itinerary planning (e.g. an afternoon call into Trondheim, where attractions are only open in the morning) and a general sense that Fred. is nowadays only out to extract as much money as possible from you. The tours were grossly overpriced (unacceptable margins over DIY for the same experience) and all over the ship there are now too many premium services. I would not recommend this trip to anyone who has more sense than money. The dinner menu had too much repetition. Over the years, a number of the little extras have been gradually phased out - the latest casualties being the Gala Buffet (now reduced to a shadow of its former self) and the drinks at the 'cocktail' parties, which now include no actual cocktails.