The Hurtigruten ships carry freight and passengers daily between many little towns along the coast of Norway. I travelled northbound, from Bergen to Kirkenes in winter and it was a beautiful trip. The days got shorter and shorter until the last day only had one hour of shimmering daylight. The whole coast was snowy white but the water doesn't freeze due to the warm gulf stream. The weather was really quiet and so was the sea. Due to it being cloudy I only saw a little bit of Northern Lights, twice. But I really loved standing out on the deck in the dark, looking for the lights. (and the meteorshower was also a great sight!)

MS Lofoten is a beautiful old ship and I really loved being on board. There's always something to do or see so no chance to get bored. Daily programs are available at the reception and they follow it almost to the minute! The trip is full-board and all the meals were excellent, with lots of fresh salmon prepared in all sorts of manners, and local specialities like herring and cheeses. Also fresh breads and fresh fruits at breakfast. You can order wine per glass. Prices are quite high but similar to those on land. This is due to Norwegian taxes and not because the company is overpricing.

Shared showers are kept clean and the water is always warm. The tapwater is drinkable and it tasted good and fresh. Read more