To see the Northern Lights was top of my bucket list and what better way than from the deck of a ship travelling along the coast of Norway into the Arctic Circle . Hurtigruten is the excellent coastal shipping service offering this golden opportunity between November and March. This line is a working ferry-service which also offers `cruise accommodation' but don't expect non-stop entertainment ,the singing, dancing, magic shows and room service common to most cruises these days. We embarked in Bergen on a cold , sunny November afternoon. From the moment I stepped into the terminal , everything went like clockwork , with friendly and efficient service .

The trip was everything I had hoped for and more. We saw the Northern lights on 6 of the 11 nights and the voyage was packed with so many other wonderful experiences , too many to list. We had an expedition team on board , four enthusiastic , energetic young people who kept us busy , interested and laughing. Every afternoon there is a ` gathering' where the expedition team give information on the next port of call , teach some Norwegian words and phrases , show some movie clips and play some music. I was travelling alone, but had no problem meeting people and making friends although there is no official plan to introduce `single travelers ' to each other as some cruise lines have. The cabins are not fancy , but comfortable and warm (there are individual temperature controls).I recommend an outside cabin because the scenery is spectacular all the time. My package included free Wi-Fi , a must if you want to keep in touch with home from your cabin. The food on board was plentiful and delicious with an amazing variety of fresh local produce , and healthy cooking styles.

There are very many excursions on offer , however in most places it is possible to walk into the town or village , with a map ( provided) and explore without a guide , personal choice. There is the possibility to go ashore at every place the ship docks , even if it's just for 10 minutes walk or jog along the harbour , but don't miss the boat! Because the schedule is so tight , the ship WILL leave without you if you're late , no question. From experience , I would say that the excursions not to miss are The North Cape, the Midnight Concert ( Tromso Arctic Cathedral) , ` A taste of Vesterallen ' and The Hurtigruten Museum , and I was told that the horse riding ( Svolvaer) which in the winter is in the dark , was a wonderful experience. This voyage is an experience of a life time so whatever you do ` DON'T MISS THE BOAT'