Much has already been written about Aurora so there is little point in repeating things. I will say, that this was a party cruise and party we did! There was however, a group of travel writers on board so I hope they didn't think this typical of a proper cruise ! There were as a result a few issues, but nothing to overly spoil our cruise. For example, people drinking copious amounts of alcohol while in the jacuzzi despite being told not to! I thought the food much improved since December, with greater and more interesting choices available. However, there was also evidence of a few more cuts, unless these were because it was a three nighter - only one truffle each at the gala dinner for example, and no shower caps in the cabins.

What I do wish to do is review the two excursions I chose. The two ports were Zeebrugge and Le Havre. As this was my fourth time in Zeebrugge, I opted for the excursion "In Flanders Fields". It was one I had wanted to do for a long time and I was not disappointed. In fact I thought it one the best P&O excursions I have ever done.

We left Zeebrugge at 8.30 for the 40 minute or so journey first to the First World Cemetery at Tyne Cot on the Ypres Salient close to Passendale. On the way the older and very knowledgeable guide told us some of the history of Belgium and the background to the First World War. Tyne Cot is the largest Commonwealth War Graves cemetery anywhere in he world, with 11,954 graves, of which 8,367 are unnamed. In addition there is a wall commemorating the 34,000 missing (for this battle sector alone!), with no known grave. As we approached the entrance every person fell silent. As you walk along the path, movement sensors trigger a sound system with a female voice reading out the names of the dead. It is incredibly moving. In the centre of the cemetery is the Cross of Sacrifice, built on top of a German Bunker, as the cemetery is situated right on the actual battlefield. In the distance you can see the spires of Ypres. This is the place of which the war artist Paul Nash wrote "They call it Passendale, I call it Hell!" There were more than a few of us with tissues in our hands. Read more