This review is primarily a travelogue of what we did in the various ports on our 36-day cruise. It was marketed as two 18-day cruises, "The Land of Fire and Ice" (NYC-Dover) and "The Top of the World" (Dover-NYC), so I have reviewed each segment separately. Only one port (Qaqortoq) was included in both cruises. For more details about us, please see the companion review.

Day 18 (Wednesday, August 12) Dover, England (Turnaround Day), on EDT+5 The TP docked at the Western Docks (www.whitecliffscountry.org.uk/pdf/dover-map.pdf). We left the ship around 7AM and hiked to the White Cliffs Visitor Centre. From the Cruise Terminal, walk out to the A20. At the second roundabout, turn right towards the waterfront. Walk along Waterloo Crescent then Marine Parade towards the Eastern Docks Ferry Terminal. Before you get to the Ferry Terminal, use the pedestrian crossing to cross over to East Cliff, there are some signs if you look hard. Continue on Athol Terrace to the steps that will lead you up to the Visitor Centre. This area is somewhat run-down; obviously more locals than tourists go this way. The White Cliffs Visitor Centre (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findaplace/w-thewhitecliffsofdover.htm) was not open that early but we had downloaded maps of hikes to the South Foreland Lighthouse (www.kent.gov.uk/NR/rdonlyres/C5C7D63B-875F-4EA5-94F9-0841E09E1E29/0/walksineastkentsouthforeland.pdf or www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/white_cliffs_-_wildlife_walk.pdf). On the way to the lighthouse, we took the more developed, inland path. At the entrance of the lighthouse property (which also was not yet open when we reached it) there is a marked footpath that leads along the wall on the north side to trails closer to the cliffs. We took those back and found a spot where we could get down to the beach and look up at the cliffs (www.discoveringfossils.co.uk/dover_kent_fossils.htm). To return to town, head back down the same way you came and along East Cliff until it joins the A20. Take the first right at the Leisure Centre (#4 on the map); near the parking lot behind the Leisure Centre are the interesting ruins of an old church and a pub called "The White Horse." Between the pub and the ruins is an alley way, which leads to steps that will take you straight up to the Dover Castle (www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.14571). When you buy your tickets, be sure to ask about the tour of the "Secret Wartime Tunnels" (included in the price of admission). After this 10-mile day we decided we deserved a nice Foster's and a hot shower!

Day 19 (Thursday, August 13) At Sea, on EDT+5 We spent the day recuperating after all the hiking in Dover. In the afternoon, there was a Cruise Critic get-together in the Tahitian Lounge. Tonight was the Captain's Welcome Cocktail party and the first of three formal nights on this leg of the cruise. Read more