As a group of friends who had always wanted to see the northern lights this cruise sounded perfect (free cruise if they don't appear and so on). None of us had ever cruised on any ship before. We heard feed back from fellow travellers and via reviews on this site about small cabins, lack of entertainment etc. But without a benchmark we didn't have any expectations. The cabins are snug it's true but beds wonderfully comfortable, showers good - we opted for artic superior. There was little in the way of evening entertainment but we spent time getting to know fellow travellers who were great fun. This is NOT a cruise ship more a working ferry with cabins! Drinks onboard were expensive , think £10 for a glass of wine(£40ish a bottle) but that reflects prices in Norway generally. Forewarned is forearmed we just settled for a single nightcap. With arctic superior cabins water at all meals is free. So on to the positives - and there were many. The food deserves a special mention , the evening meal of 3 courses was superb every single night Axel,PAtrick and the team were amazing and the waiters were fantastic. There is no choice and the set menu was not always what I would have chosen but there wasn't a single plate over the 11 days that wasn't outstanding. You do have the option, for an extra c£22 per night to go a la carte but we didn't at all. Breakfast and lunch was in the form of a buffet and the soups salads and seafood were divine. At both meals there were hot and cold options. The staff were outstanding, so friendly and helpful- special mention here to Amanda in the restaurant, she was wonderful. The best of the excursions we took were dog sledding at Tromso, the fishing villages and the ice hotel. Fellow travellers who did the snowmobile tour said it was great fun. The scenery as you sail up the coast was awesome and the towns and villages we stopped at picture perfect. In hindsight I think I would opt , as many did ,to sail Bergen- Kirkenes, stay at the ice hotel and fly back from there rather than make the return trip. Did we see the lights - you bet - 3 times