We ( a group of 4 ladies) took the 12 day Classic round trip voyage Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen from 18 -29 Dec on the Finnmarken . We deliberately chose the Finnmarken as it was billed as the most 'luxurious' ship in the Hurtigruten fleet, and having read all the reviews about how this was a working ship as opposed to a luxury liner, we wanted to make sure that we were at least comfortable while waiting for Aurora to appear. And appear she did- multiple times ! So having done this trip we would tell everyone that if your objective was to see Aurora, a cruise with Hurtigruten would be your best chance as you are out at sea in total darkness. A land tour means you would have to stay at some hotel in the city and then be driven out in the cold to some deserted spot to await Aurora - a totally hit and miss kind of thing. On the cruise we were comfortably ensconced in our cabins or the dining room, and only when announcements of an Aurora sighting were made did we need to dash up to our cabins to put on cold weather gear and troop up to the viewing decks . On one night alone Aurora appeared 3 times ,all before 10pm , and with different formations each time. The last one was the best where Aurora literally danced before our eyes - it was magic! And totally a ' mission accomplished ' kind of feeling.

As for the cruise itself, I have to say it far exceeded my expectations. The crew were simply superb, and contrary to what everyone says, there were enough activities to keep us happily surprised and occupied. From a visit by the King Crab to Xmas craft decorations and filleting a salmon, the 12 day journey flew by and we were sad when it ended. The smaller passenger intake of less than 500 people vs 3000 on RCI meant no long queues for food or registrations or anything. In fact we got to know other passengers as well and had our own jam session going when a passenger (David) took over the piano and another sang Les Miserables songs together with the bartender Stein who had a lovely baritone. They were far better the professional pianist /singer who came on after Kirkenes! Thanks guys - you really made it a great Xmas for us.

A big shout too to Morten ( reception) who helped me with everything from a safe that didnt work to OBCs that were not credited to helping with my luggage upon disembarkation; our housekeeper Lisa who also doubled as our waitress at dinner, she was just the sweetest and we personally witnessed her coming to the aid of an older passenger overcome by motion sickness; chef Ornor with his slick knife tricks who was kind enough to provide salmon sashimi and his marvellous oyster ginger sauce for 4 homesick Asians who could not face the bland style of cod fish for dinner yet again, Frederic and Askill who showed tremendous patience in teaching us how to tie the various types of knots, and was later spotted hauling luggage, officer Mona ( who often assisted Chef Ornor) for her wit, humour and generosity in doling out the very rare cloud berries, and cod liver oil and special gift spoons as we crossed back over the Artic circle. They were simply the best and make us want to journey again on Hurtigruten. Your employers must be very proud to have you on their staff given that all of you are required to multitask and cover a number of jobs. Read more