We so liked out first Viking cruise (Paris to Normandy), we signed up for a second one. Initially booked for the Bucharest to Budapest trip, we became saddened and disheartened at the developing refugee situation in Eastern Europe and asked Viking to transfer our deposit to an alternative cruise. Our rebooking on the Douro River's Hemming was readily and smoothly accomplished. The trip was spectacular from the transfer at Lisbon's airport through disembarkation in Porto. We had two delightful days in Lisbon, at the very comfortable Hotel Tivoli Lisboa, perfectly located for exploring the city. mostly on our own. A highlight was the introduction to Fado during an beautifully prepared meal in the hotel's penthouse restaurant. Enroute to Porto to meet our boat, we stopped at Coimbra, a medieval town housing a historic university replete with Harry Potter lookalikes (students wearing the school's traditional black capes which apparently inspired JK Rowling when she wrote about Hogwarts).

The ship felt airy and cool and modern, with lots of light woods in its public spaces and soothing grays and blues in the halls and cabins. We had a narrow veranda and unimpeded views of the gorgeous scenery (mostly vineyards and cork and olive plantations on steep green hills). Although small, the cabin was well appointed and functioned efficiently. My only complaint is that the shower stall could use some patchwork and re-caulking. Unique for Viking, everyone on staff was Portuguese...this seemed to heighten esprit de corps and certainly gave us passengers a richer feel for the country's people and culture. Service was impeccable, and warm, funny, kind and caring. We genuinely looked forward to waking up and seeing their sunny faces every morning.

Shore excursions were well done and enriching; and balanced nicely with time to sit on deck, read, relax and savor the sights. Of course we will go on another Viking trip; hopefully several more trips! However, I would like to make a plea to management that it reconsider its policy not to include gratuities in the cost of the ticket. I would much rather pay more upfront than have to worry about coming up with the right change for the bus driver and local guides on a daily basis. It also felt like I spent much of the trip's final days in awkward consultation with other passengers about suitable tipping amounts for the superb staff; and then dashing around to ATM machines to accumulate cash (tips could not be paid via credit card on this sailing). I am urging Viking to experimentally include tips in the trip's total price, or at least give passengers the option to pre-pay tips.