We booked the cruise on a whim ... from an email with prices just too good to ignore. Then we looked at Cruise Critic reviews. Hmmmmm ... We determined we were going to enjoy ourselves, no matter what. We went for the cruise itself, rather than the destinations.

It wasn't an auspicious start, I must admit. Fremantle Passenger Terminal was a schemozzle; chaos reigned supreme. Despite booking a time to board, we still had to join the mob, and sit on the floor, for two-and-a-half hours. Apparently the computer facilities afforded by the terminal were not compatible with the ship's systems, so everything was dog slow. And Fremantle Ports Authority needs a boot up the backside for the lack of facilities. One coffee machine; one poor overworked lady on bar duty, for 2000 passengers? And $18 for a glass of wine and a pre-mix can? Really?

Anyway, at last we walked up the gangway, past the usual photographers, and onto the deck. We found our cabin easily enough, and after some of the reviews I've read we were somewhat pleasantly surprised -- even if they had got the bedding wrong (we specified double, not twin). It was spotlessly clean, airy, with huge amounts of storage space compared to other ships we've been on. Minuscule TV didn't impress, but then we weren't there to watch TV. A quick exploration, compulsory lifeboat drill and back to the cabin where our fabulous steward was already rearranging the beds. Read more