The 'beautiful and elegant' Maasdam (as its Captain is fond of saying) lives up to that description even after 500 voyages on the high seas. I had taken my annual Christmas cruise with Carnival and had not sailed on HAL since the Rotterdam in 1978. Although this cruise was not quite as memorable as that one, it was still a very nice way to spend the holiday.

EMBARKATION: I chose this cruise in part because of the Norfolk departure. Being from New Jersey, I didn't relish driving to Florida just to board the ship (or spending the time and money on airfare). Parking in Norfolk is a bit inconvenient - one mile away from the pier. HAL sends constant bus shuttles back and forth to the lots, but the buses are a challenge for older folks with mobility difficulties and too many people try to carry bulky luggage on the bus instead of stowing it underneath or dropping it off at the pier first (recommended). Also, it is open air parking (which could be problematic in winter). There is a covered parking lot across from the pier, but it charges $14/day instead of $10 and HAL cruisers are not encouraged to use it. Once in the Nauticus terminal, my embarkation was quick and painless. The trick to avoiding the crowds is to arrive about an hour or two after initial embarkation has begun. My stateroom was ready when I walked onboard - no need to loiter in the Lido.

STATEROOM: I had an inside single cabin, which is my cabin of choice. If you crave a view, the TV has a 'view from the bridge cam' channel. Leave it on 24/7 (there is no sound) and - voila! - instant porthole. My cabin was very clean and well appointed. The new mattresses and bedding are incredibly comfortable and plush. The only minor disappointment is the toiletries offered. Although 'Dutch' they were meager and perfunctory: soap, lotion and shampoo - that's it. Only one 'American' outlet and the TV is plugged into it, so you can't recharge your phone (or whatever) while watching TV. Read more