After a disastrous cruise on Royal Caribbean 30 years ago, we swore off cruising - came back after discovering smaller ships - Renaissance, Regent and Oceania. This itinerary - around Cape Horn from Chile to Argentina appealed, so we took a chance on Princess - knowing we would enjoy our preselected table mates. We had a wonderful time - but next time we'll be back on a smaller ship.

The trip began in Valparaiso, so we came down early and spent a couple of lovely days in Santiago, riding the on-off bus and taking the subway to an Artisans Village at the end of the line. Then we arranged - thanks to a Cruise Critic recommendation - for a van to pick up all ten of us, at 4 different hotels, take us on a tour of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso with a wine tasting stop and a lunch stop, and drop us off at the ship. That worked very well - and we got to ask the guide questions we couldn't ask the recording on the on-off bus. Embarkation was not a problem despite the crowds and out lack of status - we were on our first Princess cruise. We booked a mini-suite with balcony on the Dolphin deck that was as roomy and comfortable as the Regent Suites, including a bathtub. Plenty of drawers and hangar space, and two televisions. Room Steward was excellent, but it took two days to get the bed table lamp fixed. The balcony (port) was fabulous for the glaciers, Cape Horn and even pulling into Buenos Aires.

The ship was much bigger than the last five ships we've sailed, and the endless hallways lined with cabins on both sides was somewhat depressing. It was a ten minute walk to the laundromat, with the laundry in a suitcase on wheels The public spaces were more numerous and confusing - what was the difference between the seven lounges on board - was there one that would appeal to me? Finding our assigned dining room was tricky, as only two of the ships fourteen elevators served it, and they weren't well marked. Even approaching on stairways required scheming. Read more