European Waterways

Inverness

Europe - All

Europe - British Isles & Western

Europe - River Cruise

Scotland

Excellent

Poor

La Belle Epoque

Spirit of Scotland

Enchante

L'Impressionniste

Anjodi

Scottish Highlander

L'Art de Vivre

Magna Carta

Panache

Shannon Princess

Renaissance

Following the Scottish Whisky Trail On a European Waterways' Spirit of Scotland Hotel Barge Cruise

Our cruise on European Waterways' Spirit of Scotland hotel barge unfolded along the meandering Caledonian Canal, taking us through breathtaking landscapes and quaint towns. Our first stop was the renowned Dalwhinnie distillery, nestled amidst the majestic Cairngorm Mountains. Perched at an elevation of 1,164 feet above sea level, this distillery holds the prestigious title of being the highest in all of Scotland. As our private guide led us through the distillery, we marveled at the intricate production process behind their exclusive bottlings and sampled six of their exquisite single malts. The flavors danced on my palate, leaving a lasting impression of the craftsmanship and passion that go into each bottle.

Our whisky odyssey continued the next day to the Tomatin distillery, a mere 25 minutes south of Inverness. Here, we delved into the history and artistry behind their exceptional whiskies. The air was filled with the inviting aroma of aging casks, and our tasting class revealed the nuances of their unique expressions. It was a testament to the rich heritage of whisky-making in this region.

Glen Ord distillery, situated on the captivating Black Isle, was our next stop. Founded by Thomas Mackenzie in 1838, this distillery holds a special place in the hearts of whisky connoisseurs. As we explored the premises, we discovered that Glen Ord boasts on-site maltings, a rarity in Scotland. The proximity to the barley fields ensures the highest quality ingredients, resulting in whiskies of exceptional character and flavor.

No whisky trail would be complete without a visit to the Speyside Benromach distillery. As a family-owned business for over a century, this distillery exudes a sense of tradition and heritage. We were warmly welcomed and immersed in the art of whisky-making, witnessing firsthand the meticulous process that produces their renowned single malts. It was a true testament to the dedication and expertise that has been passed down through generations.

Beyond the distilleries, our Whisky Trail Cruise offered an abundance of other unforgettable experiences. We explored historic castles, marveled at the breathtaking Highland vistas, and even crossed famous lochs, including the home of the legendary "Nessie." The beauty of the Scottish landscape enveloped us, leaving an indelible mark on us.

Throughout the voyage, the Spirit of Scotland provided the epitome of luxury and comfort. The camaraderie and shared joy we experienced aboard the barge (along with the vast array of whiskies, no doubt) created an atmosphere of warmth and kinship. The attentive crew pampered us with exquisite gastronomic meals, and the open bar boasted a remarkable selection of over 20 single malts. With each sip, I felt a deeper connection to Scotland and the centuries-old traditions that have shaped its whisky heritage.

We enjoyed a wonderful cruise six night on the Spirit of Scotland in July/August 2022. Our group, many of whom are seasoned “bargers,” chartered the ship for the week. The barge was a wonderful way to see the Highlands and a good time was definitely had by all. 

Our cabin was very comfortable with ample storage. All cabins are downstairs on the lower floor of the barge; access is by a staircase. We opted for the twin bed configuration, which allowed for a night stand in between the beds and made for easy access to and from the rest of the cabin, especially the bathroom. There was ample space under each bed to store both our 29” checked bags and our carry-on roller board bags. The closet had enough space to hang 12-15 items, with additional floor space for shoes on the bottom, while a narrow side closet held a safe and several shelves for other items including many of our packing cubes. There was a desk and chair (the chair is often not shown in the online photographs and diagram provide by European Waterways) with some side storage in a drawer and some shelf space. There was a UK adapter already in place in the 2-prong outlet just over the desk, so we were glad we thought to bring along a 3-prong UK adapter; 2 USB ports were on the lamp on the nightstand. The bathroom was conquerable to that of an interior cabin on a major cruise line, such as Princess or Holland America; there was a sink, toilet, shower and towel rack, with a hair dryer and mirror stored under the sink. The shower held bath products – shampoo, conditioner, shower gel – from the Highland Soap Company, a facility we later toured. If we had any suggestion at all to make for improvement in the accommodation, it would be to add a small shelf in the shower as we prefer to travel with our own shampoo, conditioner, etc. and there was no place to put it except the floor of the shower.  

The barge carried a crew of six: the captain, the chef, a deck hand, the cruise director, and two hostesses. All crew members were well trained, highly attentive, hard-working, and very knowledgeable. We literally could not have received more personal attention. All of them went out of their way to make sure we were having a good time.

The food on the barge was of a very high quality, as was the wine, which differed with every meal, and was served with both lunch and dinner. For breakfast, a small buffet was set out with fruit, cereal, yogurt, cheeses and pastries, but the chef cooked eggs, bacon, toast etc. on request and to specific order. Lunch usually consisted of fish served with white wine, and cheese and fruit for dessert served with a red wine. The one exception was a day with a buffet where only a French rose was served. (That was actually our favorite lunch – cold chicken, ham, quiche, and a variety of salads). Dinner was more elaborate, with a starter course, main course, and dessert, again followed by cheese and fruit with white and red wine accompanying the appropriate courses. One dinner was held in a local restaurant in Fort Augustus; while it was meant to be an interesting change of pace, neither the food nor the wine was as good as on the barge. I have food allergies, which the chef scrupulously accommodated, to my appreciation, even when he had to do a special preparation. (Note: it is important to let the company know of any allergies or food intolerances in advance for their planning and purchasing purposes.).

For those who are not wine drinkers, there is a full bar which contains soft drinks in addition to hard alcohol, to which all guests have access 24/7. One of the hostesses will make anything she has the ingredients for, or you can help yourself. 

The excursions were handled by the cruise director and deck hand; there are two vans for transportation and the distances to various attractions could be as long as an hour or more. The roads in the Scottish Highlands are narrow and winding; I certainly would not want to drive them myself! We visited Cawdor Castle, Clava Cairns, Culloden Moor, Eilean Doran Castle, and the Dalwinnie distillery. We had a falconry display on the grounds of the Highland Club in Fort Augustus and traversed Loch Ness, as well as all of the locks on the Caledonian Canal. 

If we had any complaint at all, it was to the air conditioning on board in our cabin. The barge is air conditioned, but while there are vents and individual controls in the cabins, the individual passenger cannot control the temperature level in their own cabin. We were advised to open the port holes in our cabins if we were hot, which resulted in high humidity and tiny bugs in the cabins. However, not opening the port holes resulted in a totally uncomfortable and stuffy atmosphere. It seems to me that this is a matter that can be easily rectified, and should be, by European Waterways.

A Great Cruise on the Caledonian Canal

We have done over fifteen great river cruises in Europe with various companies, and sailed on the Caledonian Canal on Lord of the Glens. We chose this trip with European Waterways because it had a different itinerary and we wanted to return to the Scottish Highlands. At over £3,000 each for 6 nights, we were looking forward to a very high standard of food and service. The crew were great and very hard-working (they do a lot of multi-tasking), and nothing was too much trouble. Service at meals was excellent. The boat was very nice and we liked the open bar. The restaurant chosen for a night out was lovely. 

   But - I run high-end tours, so I have a lot of experience of tour planning - we felt that the cruise was otherwise run on a budget. The food was a huge disappointment. In our opinion, it was too specialised for a group; portions were generally small, meals were rarely hot enough, and my dietary requirements, notified beforehand, were not adhered to at the first two meals. We had a party of Americans on the boat who did enjoy the food, but we also travelled with a British Couple who had done two previous European Waterways cruises and were very unhappy with this one. They said that the difference between the food on this cruise and the earlier cruises (which they praised highly) was significant. They said the earlier portions had been huge (they'd had to ask the chef for smaller ones) and the choice was much more mainstream. The wine on this cruise was good, but this couple weren't happy that it was all French (apparently a directive from EW head office), when they had had an international variety of wines on the earlier cruises. We all had the impression that this cruise was geared to the American guests. 

  After enjoying wonderful food on many earlier river cruises and the Lord of the Glens, we were deeply dissatisfied with what we were given to eat. Each day, we were bracing ourselves for what was to be served and this was stressful when the meals should have been a delight - good food is one of the main reasons people go on cruises. The chef did substitute some dishes for us and the other English couple, and these were good. He served us all octopus after several people had said they didn't want it, and, when someone asked if there was an alternative, he said there wasn't one. Not what one would expect to hear after paying so much for the cruise. Would it not be a good idea to offer a choice of something more mainstream for those who don't want specialist or foraged food? 

  I aimed to use this holiday to chill and relax after a frantically busy and stressful few months. The American party were very keen on long walks and cycling. That's fine, but I felt there was too much emphasis on this, to the extent that I felt uncomfortable just sitting on the barge at these times. In the end, we were very glad to get off the boat. We would not travel with European Waterways again.

A huge disappointment

Filters

1-3 of 3