While it's not exactly in a forgotten corner of Europe, Portugal's Douro River does tend to be off the beaten river cruising track in comparison to the popular Rhine, Danube and Rhone. Yet, a week spent cruising the Douro is full of unforgettable experiences that may surprise those unfamiliar with this region. As well as a day at either end of the seven-night cruise in the wonderful, UNESCO city of Porto (known for its historic centre, graceful bridges and world-famous port wine houses), there are long, blissful spells on the water without seeing other boats, cruising narrow stretches of the upper Douro between steep, rocky slopes on which thousands of hectares of port wine grapes are cultivated.
Although a Douro cruise sets a pretty leisurely pace, there are some wonderful experiences along the way. We wandered around medieval hilltop villages that have barely changed over the centuries. We visited the cellars of some of the big port-growing dynasties and saw their names gracing the steeply terraced vineyards along the river in huge letters. And we ventured outside the area, too, spending a day across the border in the magnificent Spanish university town of Salamanca, one of the best-kept secrets in the whole of Europe, thanks to its exquisite beauty and history. And then there are the simpler pleasures like eating freshly-grilled sardines at a deck barbecue organised by the crew.
While many cruise travellers have yet to stumble across the Douro River, U.K. operators have been plying the river for years. After all, it was the Brits who started the port wine industry 300 years ago with their Portuguese allies, and strong ties remain between the two countries. British operators include Titan HiTours, Saga, Page & Moy, Noble Caledonia and Cosmos.
The Douro is increasingly popular with international river lines and companies. AmaWaterways operates two ships, the aptly named AmaDouro and AmaVida. Uniworld charters the luxurious Queen Isabel from DouroAzul but will replace it in 2020 with a new ship -- S.S. Sao Gabriel. Viking River Cruises has four "baby Longships" in the region -- Viking Torgil, Viking Hemming, Viking Osfrid and its newest (2019) -- Viking Helgrim. CroisiEurope also offers Douro cruising -- the French line has six ships in the region -- Gil Eanes, Fernao de Magalhaes, Vasco da Gama, Infante Don Henrique and two newer vessels -- Amalia Rodrigues and Miguel Torga. Emerald Waterways also has a ship -- Emerald Radiance.
Wondering why you should give the Douro a try? Click on the photo above to view the slideshow of our top eight reasons to cruise down this Portuguese waterway, based on my sailing on Uniworld's Douro Queen, which previously sailed there.
Photo: Simon Dannhauer/Shutterstock.com
Sample a New Ship
The new 106-passenger Viking Helgrim, is the latest "baby Longship" Viking River Cruises has added to the Douro. Retaining all the popular features of a Longship, such as the Viking Lounge, the Restaurant and the Aquavit Terrace -- just scaled down. One pleasant surprise, though, is the addition of a small pool -- a nice touch and essential in the scorching Douro valley in summer.
Cruisers should expect classic Scandi chic design (light woods and neutral color furnishings); outstanding food, sourced mainly locally, top-notch service and very comfortable accommodation.
Photo: Adam Coulter
See Where Columbus Went to School
Gorgeous Salamanca is, without a doubt, a highlight of any Douro cruise. A UNESCO World Heritage city, Salamanca was built entirely from golden sandstone that gives off a wonderfully warming glow. We walked around the historic centre, visiting the 13th-century university, the oldest in Spain. (Columbus studied there.) Every graduating student inscribes his or her name on the gold stone walls, once in bull's blood but today in paint; some of the signatures date back hundreds of years. The library, its contents so precious that they're protected by a glass screen, contains hundreds of books from the Renaissance period. The real joy, though, is simply walking the streets, with a view like this around every corner.
Explore Tiny Villages Surrounded by Farmland
Castelo Rodrigo, a tiny, 12th-century walled village high in the mountains above the Douro, is surrounded by olive groves, wild lavender and, on the lower slopes, the ubiquitous port vineyards. You can just get a glimpse from there of the river far below, snaking its way between the hills. The half-day tour was stretching it, as this village takes sleepy to the extreme -- an hour would have been enough to explore the cobbled streets, ancient doorways and the old Jewish area, complete with ritual bath and the remains of a synagogue. But, the village is beautiful nonetheless. When we travelled, in spring, the ancient walls were draped with purple wisteria, and the fields above the vineyards were carpeted with wildflowers.
Become a Downhill Pilgrim
In Lamego, the thing to see is the sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, perched on top of a hill and overlooking the town with ornamental steps and pathways cascading down the wooded hillside. Coaches drop the able-bodied at the top and pick up in town at the bottom of the hill later. The exercise was extremely welcome; despite the miles of countryside, a Douro cruise is surprisingly sedentary. Pilgrims famously climb up the steps to the Sanctuary on their knees as a gesture of humility, a fact at which we marvelled on the way down. Back in town, there are some excellent pastry shops, where you can sit with a coffee and people-watch.
Dine in Unique Settings
The Vintage House is a beautiful, historic hotel dating back to the 18th century and today dominating the one-horse riverside village of Pinhao. Most Douro cruises include dinner there, with port tasting, in a beautiful old dining hall. Good as the food onboard is, it's always interesting to taste local dishes, which are flavoured with spiced sausages and herbs, the meats often cooked in port wine. The hotel is a short walk from the ship, so detour to the waterfront railway station, and admire the stunning blue, white and yellow azulejos tiles. They depict scenes from the port industry in the 1930's, including the wooden boats, rabelos, that used to ferry the wines from the vineyards to the port lodges nearer the coast, where they would be fermented.
Take a Cellar Tour in the Birthplace of Port
Porto itself, the second largest city in Portugal, is ravishingly beautiful, albeit slightly crumbling, and best appreciated on a walking tour. The city's famous bridge, Dom Luis, is strongly reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower in Paris in its architecture; the designer, Theophile Seyring, studied under Eiffel himself. This shot was taken from the Taylor's Port Winery on the Vilanova de Gaia side of the Douro, where all the top port houses are located. Not only does Taylor's offer one of the best cellar tours, but the vine-shaded terrace is a great lunch stop, with delicious seafood and a fabulous view across to the old city.
Just Look out Your Window
Photo opportunities abound on a Douro River cruise. At the eastern reaches of the river's navigable stretch, the river carves its way through stunning but austere scenery of narrow gorges and rocky, vine-covered slopes. Ashore, you'll spot the occasional whitewashed port wine lodge guarding its vineyards. You'll also see a few of the remaining, decorative rabelos moored up along the river banks. And, because there's no light pollution, you'll get incredible views of the night sky when it's clear.
Experience Europe's Deepest Locks, and Live to Tell the Tale
The Douro is known for having some of the deepest locks in Europe, and passing through one is a cruise highlight. Passengers will actually gather on deck to witness the spectacle. The transit is not for the claustrophobic, mind you. When you're at the lowest point -- 30 meters below the next level of the river -- the dark, slime-covered walls really close in. But, for the technically minded, the locks are fascinating pieces of engineering, as is the entrance to them and exit from them. The Douro is a fast-flowing river, and the captains need enormous skill to line up the boats with the lock entrances.
In the wee hours of the morning, under the cover of darkness, they creep. Their flip-flops smack across the pool decks of cruise ships everywhere as they shuffle like a horde of zombies armed with towels, sunscreen and books. If it sounds like a scene from a horror movie, you're on the right track. We're talking about deck chair hogs -- those inconsiderate fellow passengers who rise before the sun to stake out prime poolside real estate, mark it with personal belongings and then abandon it, rendering it useless to others. If you've had enough, we urge you to stand up to these selfish sunbathers and claim the deck chair that's rightfully yours. Join the peaceful revolution by employing the following seven tips for outsmarting deck chair hogs.