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Baltimore Overview
Baltimore, Maryland's urban hub, is one of America's most storied civic revitalizations. Since 1980, this historic city has transformed from down-and-out, gritty and industrialized to an effervescent destination for attractions, restaurants and world-class sports. That significant year was marked by the launch of Harborplace, a downtown marketplace that serves as a magnet for tourism and development. (Other successful efforts along those lines include New York's South Street Seaport and Boston's Faneuil Hall.)
Harborplace also spurred additional development along the waterfront, from the National Aquarium and the American Visionary Art Museum to the Power Plant (a dining and restaurant complex, anchored by the Hard Rock Cafe) and Port Discovery. These are just a handful of the offerings along Baltimore's Inner Harbor.
What's important to understand, though, is that Baltimore's intrinsic appeal -- depending on your interests -- spreads way beyond the Inner Harbor. The city is a mecca for baseball aficionados, but folks don't just come to see Oriole Park at Camden Yards, one of the most fabled ballparks in the country. They also visit the adjacent Babe Ruth Baseball Center at Camden Station. More homage to the local legend can be paid at the Babe Ruth Birthplace, just a few blocks away.
And more key to understanding this complex city is the fact that, while it's a darn big metropolis, it's comprised of neighborhoods with such distinctive characteristics that they're more like villages within a larger realm. Places like Fell's Point, Canton, Federal Hill, Little Italy and Mt. Vernon have treasures -- historic, culinary and otherwise -- to discover, and most are within walking distance of Inner Harbor.
The city dates back to 1729, and it grew as a major seaport on the East Coast. Its most significant moment in history occurred during the War of 1812, when the British, having triumphantly burned Washington D.C., headed toward Baltimore to ferret out what they believed to be a den of pirates. Alas, the attack on Fort McHenry resulted in victory for the Americans and is memorialized to this day by "The Star Spangled Banner," a poem written on the spot by Francis Scott Key and now known as the U.S. national anthem.
As a cruise port, Baltimore has been a bit on the sleepy side -- at least until now. Carnival Pride now cruises from Baltimore year-round, and Royal Caribbean will base a ship in Charm City 10 months out of the year, beginning in 2010. Celebrity is another seasonal regular. Primarily, travelers cruising out of Baltimore are home-porters who come from nearby states like Pennsylvania, Ohio, North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia, New York and New Jersey. As well, Baltimore's airport is a Southwest hub, so it also draws cruisers from other airline-hub cities.
The city's proximity to Washington D.C. (40 minutes away by car) means that it also attracts international travelers.
In past years, Baltimore, which lies on the Patapsco River (which feeds into the Chesapeake Bay and then into the Atlantic), has long had one down-side: The trip to open ocean takes anywhere from eight to 12 hours. Because casinos can't operate until ships reach international waters, that meant gamblers were out of luck. Relatively recent legislation has changed all of that, however, and now ships' casinos can open once vessels pass under the Francis Scott Key Bridge (only a half-hour from the cruise port).
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Other U.S.A. Cruise Ports:
Baltimore • Boston • Charleston • Ft. Lauderdale • Galveston • Gulfport • Honolulu • Houston • Jacksonville • Key West • Los Angeles • Miami • Mobile • New Orleans • New York • New York (Brooklyn) • New York (Cape Liberty) • Norfolk • Philadelphia • Port Canaveral • Portland, Maine • San Diego • San Francisco • Seattle • Tampa
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Best Souvenir
Anything bearing an Orioles logo is a safe bet. Crab memorabilia is also popular and easy to find. You can even ship frozen crab cakes from Faidley's.
Language
English is the official language spoken in Baltimore.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
The currency is the U.S. dollar. International visitors, as well as American out-of-towners, can access cash at the city's many ATM machines. Major banks also provide exchange services.
Where You're Docked
Ships dock at the new cruise port at South Locust Point, about three miles south of the city and a 10-minute drive from the Inner Harbor.
Hanging Around
Despite the new cruise terminal, which is outfitted with restrooms, vending machines, an ATM and a bank of pay phones, there's not much to do around there; you will need either car or taxi transport to travel anywhere interesting.
Getting Around
The best way to reach the terminal is by car or taxi. Once downtown, getting around is a breeze. The Inner Harbor and many of the city's neighborhoods are easily walkable, taxis are plentiful, and the Baltimore Water Taxi is an excursion on its own. It stops at places like Harborplace, the National Aquarium, the Maryland Science Center, Little Italy, Fell's Point, Canton Waterfront Park and Fort McHenry.
Cruise Shuttle Express provides transportation to Baltimore's cruise terminal for local travelers and passengers from Delaware, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Service is also available from BWI Thurgood Marshall Airport. Cost varies, depending on your pickup location. Visit www.cruiseshuttleexpress.com for information and reservations.
Most passengers use Baltimore as a drive-to port, and there's plenty of parking on-site; the cost is $15 per day, and major credit cards are accepted.
Watch Out For
The famed Baltimore accent -- known as Bawlmorese -- can be incomprehensible, but we'll offer you a quick guide. "Warder" means "water." If someone says "doncha no," it just means "don't you know," and Maryland is often pronounced "Murlin."
Don't Miss
 You can spend an entire day and then some at the Inner Harbor. Start with Harborplace and The Gallery, a waterfront complex of three buildings, connected by a public plaza where performers can be found plying their trades on weekends. There are some 101 shops, 16 restaurants and 40 food stands. There's also a bit of history -- you can tour the U.S. frigate Constellation, which entered service in 1797.
Off to one side of Harborplace is the National Aquarium, featuring one of the largest ray exhibits, as well as wall-size shark tanks. Also nearby is Port Discovery, a hands-on children's museum for ages 2 to 10, designed by Walt Disney Imagineering. Power Plant Live, an entertainment and dining complex, contains a variety of restaurants, bars and clubs.
Off of Harborplace's other side is the Maryland Science Center, which boasts an IMAX theater and planetarium. The American Visionary Art Museum, just a bit further along the harbor, is one of the most unique of its kind, celebrating the artistic creations of "ordinary people." (Its Joy America restaurant is fantastic.)
Pay homage to baseball, America's pastime, by taking in a game at the new-but-looks-old Oriole Park at Camden Yards. Make time beforehand to visit the aforementioned museums nearby, celebrating both Baltimore's baseball history and Babe Ruth, its biggest legend. While you're in the neighborhood, check out Geppi's Entertainment Museum; it explores pop culture from the 1700's to the present day, as seen through toys and comic characters like Batman and Spiderman.
The Battle of Baltimore -- fought September 13 and 14, 1814, at Fort McHenry during the War of 1812 -- inspired Francis Scott Key to write the words to what is now America's national anthem. Key, detained aboard an American ship, witnessed Britain's fierce bombardment of McHenry, and was relieved to find the American flag still flying above the battered fort in the morning. In summer, at selected times, the fort has living history programs.
Don't miss the neighborhood of Fell's Point. Baltimore's original downtown oozes ambience and features streets of Belgian blocks, seedy pubs, hippie-like boutiques and 18th- and 19th-century restored rowhouses.
Baltimore's newest "hot" neighborhood is a few miles beyond Fell's Point. Canton, a once-blue-collar neighborhood with lots of rowhouses and marble streets, is in transition. There's a new waterfront park, but much of the action is centered in O'Donnell Square, where you'll find restaurants and shops.
Tucked behind the Maryland Science Center, Federal Hill is another delightfully historic neighborhood of refurbished rowhouses, some of which have unique marble steps. It's a great destination for dining and bar-hopping; don't miss the charming Cross Street Market, a more modest and less frenzied version of Lexington Market.
The Mt. Vernon neighborhood is Baltimore's cultural heart. Located less than a mile north of the Inner Harbor, Mt. Vernon is home to the Meyerhoff Symphony Hall, the Peabody Conservatory of Music and the Walters Art Museum, whose diverse collection spans 55 centuries. Among the highlights are Egyptian sarcophagi, Faberge eggs, Monet paintings and an impressive collection of works from the European Old Masters, including Raphael and El Greco. Just on the outskirts is the Howard Street antique district.
Been There, Done That
Just 45 minutes from Baltimore, the charming, historic city of Annapolis once served as America's capital. Just off the Chesapeake Bay, Annapolis is steeped in colonial history and ambience; the Annapolis State House, built in 1772, is the oldest state capitol in continuous operation in the U.S. At the U.S. Naval Academy, established in 1845, visit the chapel to view the elaborate stained glass windows, including one designed by Tiffany, and see the crypt of naval hero John Paul Jones. We also don't mind admitting that it's a fabulous place for boutique shopping and noshing in everything from seedy taverns to chic cafes. Note: You'll need a car to make this trip.
Visit the nation's capital, Washington D.C., which is about an hour away by car or train. (Amtrak and MARC, Maryland's regional railroad, both offer service between the cities. The obvious attractions, of course, are the Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial, Smithsonian Institution, White House, Georgetown University and U.S. Capitol building.
Lunching
Harborplace: This is a great family dining destination with many chain-restaurant options that include M&S Grill, the Cheesecake Factory and Johnny Rockets, along with numerous "stalls" that sell a range of specialties. These include the delicacies of fried dough, raw oysters and pizza. Our pick for Harborplace would be Phillips Seafood Restaurant, especially for first-time Baltimore visitors. (It's not the best place in town for crab cuisine, but it's a classic.)
Fell's Point: Arguably the best all-around destination for foodies, Fell's Point offers everything from the uber-casual Peter's Inn and Duda's Tavern to the more elegant Pierpoint (try the smoked crab cakes) and the Greek-influenced Black Olive (best seafood in town). Pazo is a hip new place that specializes in tapas.
Little Italy: This Italian-American enclave lies between downtown and Fell's Point. Sabatino's and Aldo's Ristorante Italiano are classics.
Mt. Vernon: Try Sotto Sopra for nouvelle Northern Italian in a hip atmosphere, or visit Helmand for Afghan cuisine. (Sample the Kabuli, which blends pallow, an Afghan-style rice, with chunks of lamb tenderloin, raisins and glazed julienne of carrots.) The Brass Elephant, a Baltimore institution, is my pick for most romantic.
Crab Cakes and More: For the most casual of experiences, visit Lexington Market, where J.W. Faidley cooks up some of the city's best crab cakes. For adventurous eaters, Lexington Market, a precursor to the trendier Harborplace, has stall after stall of regional foods -- you eat at picnic tables scattered around the huge hall. Want to dive into a mess of steamed crabs? My favorite is Gunning's in south Baltimore. Obrycki's, just east of the Inner Harbor, may be more convenient, though.
Baltimore's Best Restaurant (for Dinner): Charleston is renowned for its nouvelle southern cuisine, fantastic wine list and top-notch service.
Accommodations
Harbor Area on a Budget: The Holiday Inn -- Inner Harbor, with its famous revolving rooftop restaurant, is three blocks from the harbor.
For Families: We love the Renaissance Harborplace Hotel for its utterly central location -- across the street from Harborplace and all the other Inner Harbor attractions and attached to the Gallery at Harborplace, an indoor mall. If price is an object or you need more space, try the Residence Inn Baltimore Inner Harbor.
The Inner Harbor: There are three Marriotts on and around the waterfront, but the most up-market is the newest -- the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront, which has harbor views, plus a swimming pool and fitness room.
Charming and Boutique: Two of our favorites are in Fell's Point. The Admiral Fell Inn, a collection of restored buildings in the heart of Fell's Point, has 80 rooms -- all different in personality. The Inn at Henderson's Wharf is, despite its historic structure, more contemporary. Urban sophisticates might also want to check out Scarborough Fair, a gorgeous, six-room bed and breakfast inn that's conveniently located in historic Federal Hill, between the Inner Harbor and the port.
Staying in Touch
Internet cafes seem to have become obsolete in Baltimore since most hotels in the area provide high-speed Internet access -- many for free. Some hotels offering Internet access include the Sheraton Baltimore, Wyndham Baltimore, Marriott Inner Harbor, Holiday Inn, Hyatt Regency, Days Inn and Harbor Court.
Shore Excursions
The only offering is a city tour with an airport drop-off. It's definitely an interesting way to kill time.
For More Information
Call 877-BALTIMORE
On the Web: Baltimore Area Convention and Visitors Association
Cruise Critic Message Boards: United States
The Independent Traveler Message Boards: Maryland
--Updated by Carolyn Spencer Brown, Editor in Chief.
All photos, except Oriole Park, appear courtesy of the Baltimore Area Convention and Visitors Association.
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 Shore Excursions
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