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Limassol, the largest coastal town in Cyprus, sprawls around Akrotiri Bay, midway between Larnaca and Paphos and close to the southern foothills of the Troodos Mountains. It's the island's principal cruise port.
Cyprus is the kind of destination where you have to venture off the beaten track to uncover the true nature of the place. At first glance, Limassol is a low-rise, sun-baked, urban sprawl, slightly chaotic and architecturally uninspiring. Scratch the surface, particularly around the castle area, and you'll find a tangle of shady, pedestrianized streets in the medieval center; ancient mosques alongside Greek Orthodox churches; and broad shopping boulevards, lined with boutiques that showcase up-and-coming designers. Its waterfront, still in the process of being developed, offers a sculpture park and lovely vistas of the bay. All in all, Limassol has, for years, been a pleasant -- if not exactly cutting-edge -- destination, in terms of style and cuisine.
Immediately outside the town are rolling hills, olive and citrus groves and tiny villages, where locals still use donkeys for transport. Limassol is at the heart of the island's wine-growing industry, and visitors will see dusty vineyards, clinging to the sun-bleached, sloping hills.
It might not otherwise feel old, but Limassol, which dates to at least 2000 B.C., is the gateway to sites of antiquity, such as Kourion, with its Greco-Roman Theatre, and, nearby, the Temple of Apollo. Also worth a look is Nicosia, the only capital city in the world to be divided by force (by Turkish and Greek Cypriots).
If you feel like a low-key day, you'll appreciate Limassol itself. Despite the city's busy urban setting, Limassol's 200,000 residents demonstrate a healthy respect for the work-life balance, spending time in coffee shops, strolling along the beach in the evenings and dining in large family groups in the many tavernas and restaurants. This attitude gives the town a holiday atmosphere, even in the spring and late autumn. The tourist season is long, with cruise ships calling from April or May up until early November. Limassol essentially exists in two parts. The main town is the closest area to the port, where you'll find, just inland, the medieval castle and the main shopping boulevards of Makarios III and Agiou Andreou. The beach stretches all the way from the waterfront to the far end of Akrotiri Bay, a narrow ribbon of development that has been dedicated mainly to four- and five-star hotels.
Limassol is ideally situated for cruise passengers, as it's in the middle of everything. The important archaeological sites of Kourion, Kolossi Castle and Limassol Castle are less than 30 minutes from the port. Day trips into the mountains and wine-growing areas are easily manageable. Paphos, an attractive UNESCO World Heritage site and major tourist center, is less than an hour away -- thanks to efficient motorway links -- while the capital, Nicosia, is an hour inland to the northeast.
Visitors to Cyprus tend to remember the friendliness of its people. Everybody in the hospitality trade speaks English, and everybody -- from taxi drivers to taverna proprietors -- will engage visitors in conversation. People are not on the make here, although they're pretty entrepreneurial; they're just naturally and delightfully hospitable.
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Other Eastern Mediterranean Cruise Ports:
Athens (Piraeus) • Bari • Bodrum • Corfu • Crete (Heraklion) • Dubrovnik • Gythion • Haifa • Istanbul • Izmir • Jerusalem (Ashdod) • Katakolon (Olympia) • Kotor • Kusadasi • Limassol • Mykonos • Rhodes • Santorini • Split • Varna • Venice • Volos • Yalta • Zadar
Olive oil and olive tree products -- soap, candles and wood carvings, for example -- as well as mountain honey are good buys. Sets of Greek worry beads make good trinkets and are easy to pack. Specialty stores sell decent goatskin rugs; goats are used on Cyprus for everything -- meat, milk and skin. Cyprus is famous for its handmade lace -- Lefkaritika.
Greek is the official language, with local variations in the dialect. Almost all Cypriots in the tourist areas speak excellent English, and road signs are in both languages. Place names appear in the Anglicized version of the town's original Greek name, so Limassol is Lemesos, Paphos is Pafos, and Nicosia is Lefkosia.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
Cyprus uses the euro. For current currency conversion figures, visit
Where You're Docked
Cruise ships dock at the Limassol New Port, a combined cargo and passenger facility, located five kilometers (three miles) west of Limassol center. Some cruise lines provide shuttles to the old town center; otherwise, taxis line up at the port when a ship is in. The walk is not especially attractive, particularly in the heat of summer; save your energy for the town itself. Inconveniently, car-hire services are not available at the port, and if you prebook a rental car, you will be charged extra for its delivery to meet your ship.
The passenger terminal houses currency exchange facilities, public telephones, a poorly stocked duty-free shop and a tourist information booth.
Cyprus has three types of buses: inter-urban, rural and urban. Urban buses are fine if you want to make short hops around town. But when you only have a day and want to explore, the most realistic way to sightsee is either to join a tour or to drive yourself -- because buses are slow and not always reliable. Plus, some of the major sights are in the middle of the countryside. Self-driving options are enormously popular, from cars and quad bikes to mopeds, bicycles and dune buggies. Driving is on the left, so Brits feel very much at home.
Limassol features plenty of taxis. Urban taxis have meters and can be hailed on the street. Rural taxis have to be booked in advance (ask a taverna owner or shopkeeper to call one for you) and don't use meters, so agree on the fare before departing.
Watch Out For
Limassol and Cyprus generally are relatively safe places, but keep an eye on personal belongings (as you would in any busy tourist spot). Be careful crossing the main road that runs along the seafront in Limassol's Amathus area; people tend to drive too fast there and not pay attention. Finally, apply plenty of sunblock; the sun is extremely strong, and it's easy to get burned. Remember, Cypriots drive on the left, so be careful when crossing the street.
Kourion, some 19 kilometers west of Limassol, is the island's most important archaeological site. It features a beautiful amphitheater, which overlooks the coast, and extensive excavations of a Roman city-kingdom that dates to 200 B.C.
Closer to the town (15 minutes' drive from the port) is the 13th-century Kolossi Castle, a fortified tower that's one of the last reminders of the occupation of the island by the Knights Hospitaller. Although the castle is essentially an empty shell, you can see old coats of arms engraved on the walls and the remains of an ancient sugar mill on the grounds. Climb to the top and admire the view; the castle was strategically positioned to survey the surrounding landscape and warn of enemies approaching. It was originally known as a commandery, and it was from here that the Commanderia fortified wine originated -- you'll see it for sale all over the island.
In Limassol itself, you can walk around the chunky, medieval Limassol Castle at the pedestrianized old center. Today, it's surrounded by smart tavernas and hip bars and a very pleasant lunch spot. In 1191, Richard the Lionheart married Berengaria of Navarre in the original castle there, but today's fortress is a mere 420 years old. The prison cells in the basement were in use as recently as 1950. (Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday)
The Troodos Mountains are the spine of forested hills that run, east to west, across the island's center. From the top, there are amazing views as far as the Turkish coast (on a clear day), right across the Turkish-occupied northern sector. Follow the walking trails in the forest, and try fresh, barbecued mountain trout at a village taverna. Visit Kykkos, a beautiful and incredibly wealthy monastery, housing incredible icons and gold mosaics. Do this circuit in a rental car or book a tour -- the ones in four-wheel-drive vehicles are best, as the tours head off road to visit impressive waterfalls and bump down the forest trails. Try Ascot Tours if you're booking independently: www.ascotrentacar.com.
Wine enthusiasts should visit Omodhos, the island's principal wine-growing village, located some 40 minutes from Limassol. The cobbled centre is pleasant to stroll around in for an hour or so, and there are some good tavernas for lunch, as well as wineries that offer tastings.
Heading west, spend the day in Paphos, less than an hour from Limassol on the new motorway. You can check out the mosaics and the Tombs of the Kings (impressive excavations), as well as the very attractive harbor, which is surrounded by cafes and tavernas and guarded by a medieval fortress. Farther afield, along the dirt tracks of the Akamas Peninsula, you can explore a wild and rugged area of protected countryside on the island's northwest tip. (It helps if you're in a four-wheel-drive vehicle.)
Cyprus is the island where Aphrodite allegedly rose from the foam, and Petra tou Romiou -- the spot where the miracle happened -- is on the old coast road from Limassol to Paphos. Although undercurrents mean the swimming isn't especially safe, it's a popular beach. A huge chunk of the chalky cliff broke off and sits in the water, creating a scenic stretch of coast. Most island tours make photo stops there.
Been There, Done That
If you have children in tow and it's unbearably hot, head for the Watermania Waterpark at Fasouri, a suburb of Limassol. It's the biggest waterpark on the island and has the biggest wave pool in Europe, with slides and rides for all ages.
Pick up a free booklet on walking trails from the tourist office, and plan a hike in the Troodos along one of the marked trails. The Caledonia Trail, for example, takes a couple of hours, downhill all the way, criss-crossing a river on stepping stones to the cascading Caledonia Falls, where you can swim in a mountain pool. There's a trout farm and restaurant (Psilo Dentron) at the bottom. From there, you can order a taxi back to your car at the top after a barbecue lunch.
For another easy and stunning walk, travel along the Avakas Gorge, north of Paphos, through a dramatic canyon. It's got a cliff-top taverna (The Last Castle) at the entrance, offering barbecue lunches and meze with breathtaking views across Akamas and the Paphos coast. An ordinary rental car (not a 4WD) will get you to the start point.
When the weather's not too hot, Nicosia -- the last divided capital in Europe (half Greek Cypriot, half Turkish Cypriot) -- is a fascinating day out and only an hour or so from Limassol by car. The center is encircled by massive ramparts, and the pedestrianized Laiki Yitonia district is fascinating, featuring narrow alleys, lined with craft workshops and tavernas under the shade of cooling vines. Visit the Archaeological Museum and St. John's Cathedral, or cross into the Turkish-occupied North at Lidra Street (take your passport) to look at the mosques, markets and 19th-century mansions. A good street map is essential.
Limassol is not known for its beautiful beaches, although it's a major seaside resort. All beaches in Cyprus are public, so you may feel free to visit one of the hotel beaches, all of which are along a strip in the Amathus area, west of the town center. Most of the beaches are narrow, though, with gritty sand. The municipal beach, at the eastern end of the strip (and clearly marked on the free Limassol maps given out by the tourist board), has cafes, water sports and public restrooms. The broad promenade there comes to life every evening with locals strolling, jogging and taking after-work dips.
Limassol is packed with excellent restaurants. It has every kind of fast food under the sun, from T.G.I. Friday's to Pizza Hut, as well as some expensive, gourmet restaurants that are done more justice at dinner than at lunch. But, you can find plenty of places to have terrific local lunches, too.
If you want the full Cypriot meze, allow all afternoon, and skip breakfast. You can get meze in any taverna. It's usually better as you venture farther from the tourist strip. Meze consists of lots of small dips, salads, sausages and pieces of seafood to start. That's followed by a heftier main course of meat or fish, vegetables and potatoes, rice or fries and then sweet baklava and other pastries or fruit. More and more things will keep appearing, so pace yourself! Some places specialise in fish, others in meat.
Around the castle, try Stretto part cafe and part restaurant. It offers light Mediterranean dishes, sandwiches, wraps and grills. (Lanitis Carob Mill complex, Vasilissis Street, right by the medieval castle)
For a really good meze, go to Limanaki at the Amathus Hotel, located on the main hotel strip west of town on Amathus Avenue. It's an award-winning upmarket fish taverna right on the beach. Although the restaurant was created by the hotel, it feels authentic, and the quality is fantastic. Try the meze, or stick to the day's catch. Some dishes have classy twists, including stuffed calamari.
For something unusual, Ta Piatakia is a quirky little restaurant in the town center. The room is festooned with plates -- on the walls and hanging from the ceiling (the name means "little plates") -- and the food is exciting and highly imaginative Cypriot cuisine with a twist. There's bacon-wrapped feta, baked cherry tomatoes in a sweet and sour herb dressing and feta with duck. (Nicodemou Mylona 7.)
Lunch at I Orea Ellas makes for a great day trip; it's in the village of Vouni (also the location of an herb farm and the Cyprus Donkey Sanctuary, which you can visit to "adopt" a retired working donkey). The taverna's owner, Mrs. Phaedra, cooks authentic, regional Greek food with a Cypriot twist and makes restina wine on the premises. It's a good day out for families.
Staying in Touch
There is good cellphone reception in most parts of the island, including the Troodos Mountains. There are Internet cafes all over the tourist strip in the Amathus area of Limassol (the main concentration of hotels, bars and restaurants, 10 minutes farther around the bay from the center). But, there are fewer in the town itself.
Best for First-Timers: The 4.5-hour "Kourion, Temple of Apollo and Omodos Village" tour visits the 13th-century fortress of Kolossi Castle, the Greco-Roman amphitheater at Kourion and the adjacent Temple of Apollo. It concludes with a drive through the countryside to the wine-growing village of Omodos, where guests can browse the wine and souvenir shops lining the cobbled main street.
Best for Repeat Visitors: On the five-hour "Half-Day in Paphos" tour, participants take the scenic coast road, west from Limassol, to Aphrodite's birthplace -- where legend has it that the goddess rose from the sea foam -- and stop to admire the view. At Paphos, a UNESCO World Heritage site, guests can visit the third-century mosaics. Free time is available at the end of the tour to sit with a coffee and people-watch in the pretty harbor. Also good: "Nicosia: The Last Divided Capital City." The five-hour tour visits the Cyprus Archaeological Museum, the St. John Cathedral and allows for time for independent exploration.
Best for Families: Bump along mountain trails on a five-hour, off-road Jeep tour, taking in medieval villages, waterfalls and the Kouris Dam, which has created a large lake and is part of an important water conservation project. The tour ends with wine-tasting in one of the villages (for adults) and a visit to a traditional candy maker (for kids).
Best for Active Travelers: Explore the Troodos Mountains on a five-hour, round-trip trekking adventure. (Two hours are actually spent hiking.) The tour will take you to the Caledonia Nature Trail, one of the many marked trails in the Troodos forest, high in the mountains. The path follows the Krios Potamos (Cold River) as it tumbles down the hillside, through deep forest, offering beautiful views and stepping stones on which to play around. After the hike, you have time for shopping and refreshments in the mountain town of Platres.
For More Information
On the Web: Cyprus Tourism Organization: www.visitcyprus.com
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Other Mediterranean Ports
Independent Traveler: Europe Travel Guide
-- by Sue Bryant, Cruise Critic Contributing Editor