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San Francisco Overview
It's no wonder Tony Bennett left his heart here. San Francisco is a compact city of world-class culture, historical landmarks, award-winning dining, outdoor adventures and nightlife -- all wrapped up by a sparkling bay flanked by the famous Golden Gate Bridge, visible from hilly streets' whizzing cable cars. Even the unpredictable fog adds to the beauty.
Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala discovered the inlet in 1775 but it wasn't until 1847 that San Francisco got its name -- just before gold was discovered in "them thar" Sierra Nevada hills to the east. In 1850, California became the 31st state in the union and by 1854 more than 500 saloons and 20 theaters graced the booming Gold Rush town. But the real "gold" to be found was in its seas -- and the area known as Fisherman's Wharf, on the San Francisco Bay, is still the center of Northern California's commercial fishing industry.
Indeed, the City by the Bay reflects its roots: A morning stroll down Fish Alley -- Jefferson between Hyde and Jones -- offers a chance to view fishermen at work, and an old saloon established in 1861 still stands in the city's North Beach neighborhood with cracked barstools and a dusty wooden floor. (It is one of the three oldest taverns in San Francisco, which somehow survived demolition by man and earthquakes, including the major one in 1906 that resulted in fire and widespread destruction.)
But above all, today's San Francisco is playfully sophisticated with a mix of distinct contemporary neighborhoods like the tie-dye-wearing, peace-loving Haight; up-and-coming Deco Ghetto; swank Pacific Heights; and fabulously gay Castro -- home to many of the city's GLTB (gay, lesbian, transgender and bisexual) businesses and households. But with rainbow flags lining nearly every street, the culture has spread citywide: San Francisco is actually the self-proclaimed gay and lesbian capital of the world.
If your voyage begins or ends in this colorful California port, consider a pre- or post-cruise stay. The treats of San Francisco command more than a few hours: mah-jongg parlors in Chinatown (with yummy samples from the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley), cable car rides over Nob Hill, the staircase down the very steep and crooked Lombard Street, the ferry ride to enchanting Sausalito across San Francisco Bay, and -- of course -- an escape to Alcatraz.
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Language
English.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
As San Francisco is part of the U.S., the currency is the U.S. dollar. International visitors will find it easy to access cash at numerous ATM's. Exchange bureaus so common in Europe are not in the U.S., but major banks also provide exchange services. Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. Some are open on Saturday mornings.
Where You're Docked
Ships dock at Pier 35 on the San Francisco Bay at Embarcadero, the city's bustling downtown waterfront; nearby Fisherman's Wharf is the center of Northern California's commercial fishing industry (Pier 45 is one of America's most modern fish-processing centers).
Hanging Around
Many of the city's major tourist attractions are located within steps of the port including Fisherman's Wharf, the center of Northern California's commercial fishing industry. Hyde Street Pier, a historic ferry pier in Fisherman's Wharf, is part of the National Park Service's Maritime Museum; here, maritime buffs can board historic vessels such as the 1886 square-rigger Balclutha and 1914 paddlewheel tug Eppleton Hall.
Nearby Pier 39 is a bustling marketplace boasting more than 110 stores, 13 bay-view restaurants, street performers and live daily entertainment. Access to Alcatraz is available at Pier 41.
Getting Around
Getting to the Port: The San Francisco Airport is located 14 miles outside the city, and the Oakland Airport is 21 miles outside the city. Public transportation is available from both airports, but there's no direct route from the airport to the pier. You'll need to switch lines (the local F trolley runs up the Embarcadero) or catch a cab once in San Francisco, so you might prefer to book your cruise line's transfer or take a taxi or door-to-door shuttle to minimize hassles.
At SFO, the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) station is located on the Departures/Ticketing Level of the International Terminal. BART is also easily accessed from any terminal by riding the free Air Train. Trains leave the station every few minutes throughout the entire day. Travel time from the airport to the Embarcadero and other stops in the city is about 35 minutes. From OAK, take the AirBART shuttle between the airport and the Coliseum/Oakland Airport BART station. Travel time to the Embarcadero station is about 10 minutes. For more information, visit www.bart.gov.
By far, the cheapest way to reach the city from SFO is by getting on the SamTrans's (San Mateo County Transit District) No. 292 bus, running from about 5:30 a.m. until about midnight. It only costs about $1.75 and takes about an hour. You can bring as much luggage as you want -- you just have to deal with it yourself. You'll find the buses at the north end of the lower levels. The route terminates at the Transbay Terminal at Mission and First Streets. For more information, visit www.samtrans.com.
Door-to-door shared ride vans are available at both airports and depart every 15 to 30 minutes round the clock. Try American Airporter Shuttle (www.americanairporter.com) or Super Shuttle (www.supershuttle.com).
Taxis are readily available at the airports at designated taxi zones located outside Baggage Claim at all terminals. From SFO, fares are metered, plus a $2 surcharge. The fare to the cruise terminal will run from $45. There is a surcharge of 150 percent (that's not a typo) for destinations 15 miles beyond city limits or the boundaries of the airport. From OAK, taxis cost around $60 - $70. Taxis can be shared and the price divided. A 15-percent tip is customary.
Amtrak does not offer rail service to San Francisco, but does stop in Emeryville, just over the Bay Bridge. A shuttle will take you to the Ferry Building in the Embarcadero. There is no baggage handling for the bus portion, so consider if your luggage is too much to handle.
If you're driving, cruise parking is available at ACE Parking (55 Francisco St., 415-398-0208) and City Park (80 Francisco St., 415-398-4162). Both garages are a short walk from Pier 35.
By Car: All the major rental companies operate in the city (and have desks at the airports) such as Avis, Alamo and Enterprise. Car-rental rates vary with daily rates starting from about $50. Note: Parking is horrendous in the city, so we suggest renting a car only if you plan on exploring beyond the usual city sights. If you are lucky enough to find street parking, be sure to use the hand brake and curb your wheels when facing downward on a hill&away from the curb when uphill. You'll get a pricey ticket if you don't.
On Foot: There are distinct neighborhoods (i.e. Castro, Fisherman's Wharf, Haight, Chinatown, Mission, Marina, Nob Hill, North Beach, Pacific Heights, Russian Hill, Union Square, Tenderloin, SoMa). The city's main thoroughfare is Market Street, downtown is east and the Golden Gate Bride is north. A city perfect for walking -- it is fun to wander the hilly streets and even over the Golden Gate. Fact is, you can walk from Union Square to Fisherman's Wharf, passing Chinatown and North Beach on the way, and it will take you about a half hour. Walking is the best way to travel for those not in a rush, and it's the only way to really see the neighborhoods.
By Rail: The San Francisco Municipal Railway (Muni) runs the cable cars, buses and streetcars. Fares for buses and streetcars are $1.50 and the cable cars are $5. You'll need exact change. Buses generally run from 6 a.m. - midnight, but there are some routes that offer "Owl" service. The cable cars run from 6:30 a.m. - 1:30 a.m. Streetcars in general run Monday - Friday from 5 a.m. - 12:45 a.m., Saturday from 6 a.m. - 12:45 a.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. - 12:20 a.m. You might want to consider a Passport, which gives you unlimited rides on all services. It's $11 for one day, $18 for three. You can purchase the pass at the San Francisco Visitor Information Center, the Powell/Market cable car booth, the Sutter and Hyde Streets booth, the Holiday Inn Civic Center and the TIX Bay Area booth in Union Square. BART, which is mainly used for reaching the outlying areas such as Oakland has fares starting at about $1.25. Machines inside the stations dispense tickets. The trains run every 15 minutes or so, Monday - Friday from 4 a.m. - midnight, Saturday from 6 a.m. - midnight and Sunday from 8 a.m. - midnight.
Editor's note: A $49 CityPass ($39 for kids) gets visitors half-price admission to several popular cultural and entertainment attractions without waiting on line: a Blue & Gold Fleet Bay Cruise, the Steinhart Aquarium or California Palace of the Legion of Honor, the Exploratorium, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the Asian Art Museum plus seven days of unlimited transportation on the buses, cable cars and street cars. You can purchase it at any of the included attractions, at the Visitor Information Center.
Best Souvenir
Sourdough bread; Ghirardelli chocolate anything.
Watch Out For
Rough seas. Also, San Francisco is the hilliest city in the United States, and its steep streets are best traversed by cable car; the views can be enjoyed standing on one of the outside platforms, but travelers should hold on tight (and keep extremities tucked away from oncoming traffic!).
Don't Miss
 You can't visit here and not spend time at Fisherman's Wharf; check out all the crab stands near Jefferson Street. Look out across the Bay and you'll see Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge -- look down and you might see a few sea lions trying to get a tan. Younger kids will love the hand-painted two-tiered Venetian carousel topped in almost 2,000 twinkling lights at Pier 39.
Ghirardelli Square (Daily 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.; until 6 or 7 p.m. in the winter months; 900 North Point St.) started out as a factory in 1864, making Civil War uniforms -- but it's famous for being the chocolate and spice factory from 1893 until the mid-1960's. Look for the original 1860 cast-iron chocolate grinder from France on the lower level and make sure you stop at the old-fashioned soda fountain down there, too. These days, the factory is in another part of town and this place, though on the National Historic Register, is a multi-level mall filled to the brim with shops and restaurants.
Heralded as one of the world's most beautiful bridges, San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge attracts approximately nine million visitors each year. Riding across the span of the bridge costs $5 per vehicle. Pedestrians (including wheelchair users) and bicyclists may access the sidewalks during daylight hours. Or, view it from afar on a ferry ride across the Bay to...
Alcatraz. Now run by the National Park Service, Alcatraz (a.k.a. the Rock) is where some of the most notorious felons were sent from 1934 until 1963; alums include Al Capone, "Machine Gun" Kelly and of course, Robert Stroud, the "Birdman of Alcatraz." The ferry departs from Pier 41 most days from 9:30 a.m., running every half hour or so. The island closes at 6:30 p.m. in the summer months, at 4:30 p.m. at all other times. There are some evening (read spookier) tours, but check the schedule before you head out. Notes: There is a bit of an elevated walk from the ferry to the cell house so wear comfortable shoes. If you think it might be a difficult trek for you, consider taking SEAT -- an electric shuttle that runs about every hour between the dock and the cell house. Bring a heavy sweater or a windbreaker, because it gets real chilly out there.
Where prices are subject to discussion, Chinatown is beyond the great big red and green gate on Grant Avenue. Inside you'll find a 24-block maze of restaurants, shops, ornate temple and cheap dim sum joints galore. Try not to leave town without what some say is the best Cantonese around at the Lichee Garden on Powell Street.
Photo ops abound not far from North Beach at Coit Tower atop Telegraph Hill (Daily 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd.). Built as a memorial to the city's volunteer firemen, it was finished in 1933. The Diego Rivera-inspired murals at its base are wonderful to see -- all done by 25 artists under the WPA during the New Deal. For panoramic views of the city and the bay, climb to the top of the Coit Memorial Tower (elevator rides cost just $3 per person).
The cavernous Exploratorium's Tactile Dome (Tuesday - Sunday 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. 3601 Lyon St) is a perfect stop for kids to navigate a series of environments and obstacles in total darkness, figuring out the course by touch. There are more than 650 permanent exhibits.
It may not be Manhattan's Central Park, but Golden Gate Park sure comes close -- at 75,398 acres, it is one of the largest inner-city national parks on the planet where you can rent bikes (there are a handful of rental shops on Stanvan St.), horseback ride or simply gaze out on the Pacific. A must-see site in the park is the Japanese Tea Garden, a beautiful collection of waterfalls, bonsai trees, and Japanese-style architecture.
All at once, trendy, nostalgic, funky and touristy. That's the legendary intersection Haight-Ashbury. Made famous by the psychedelic 60's, it's a bit more gentrified these days with swank shops and hip restaurants. You'll still spot a few aging hippies here and there along Haight Street -- and a lot of strangely colored hair atop club kids' heads. If you want to see where the Grateful Dead lived in the mid-60's, head for 710 Ashbury Street. Bibliophiles should check out the Bound Together bookstore at 1369 Haight Street. You won't find any Danielle Steel on the shelves, but you will find the works of Noam Chomsky and Mumia Abu-Jamal. Mickey's Monkey at 214 Pierce Street is a must if you're looking for a lava lamp and other kitschy collectible.
For people-watchers, the best coffeehouses are found in the Italian enclave of North Beach (where baseball great Joe DiMaggio grew up). Don't look for a beach -- there isn't one -- but there's plenty of history in this part of town. Grant Avenue is the city's oldest street and legend has it that as fires swept through the city after the 1906 earthquake, locals cracked open barrels upon barrels of red wine and soaked blankets that were then draped over their houses. While you're here, check out the historic St. Francis of Assisi Church on Vallejo Street. Established in 1849, it remains famous for its Schoenstein pipe organ and spectacular murals that grace the interior walls. No longer an active parish, there are free Sunday concerts every week. The Italian restaurants (with the obligatory red and white checked tablecloths) are matchless, and there's plenty of nightlife along Columbus and Grant Avenues. You'll also find boutiques selling handmade goods; City Lights at 261 Columbus Avenue is one of the city's best bookstores.
Union Square is considered the center of the city; many hotels, department stores, restaurants and tony boutiques frame the small park (mostly along Post, Stockton, Geary, Powell and Sutter Streets). The Theater District is just three blocks away. There are also a handful of decent art galleries in the area -- in particular, the Xanadu Gallery on Maiden Lane that is inside the only Frank Lloyd Wright building in San Francisco. Around the perimeter of the park, you'll find the sidewalks dotted with colorful flower stalls and jewelry vendors.
Head over to SoMa (South of Market) for a plethora of galleries, museums, shopping and plenty of entertainment in what was once a neighborhood filled with old factories and warehouses. You'll find plenty of nightlife here, too.
For a view beyond all views, head to the top of Market Street to Twin Peaks. If you want to reach it without too much of a hike, find the Pemberton Stairs near Clayton Street. It won't get you all the way to the top, but the views are still awesome.
Been There, Done That
A visit to the GLBT Historical Society is an opportunity to visit world-class exhibits related to gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender history and culture. For more information and setting up a visit, go to www.glbthistory.org, 657 Mission St. For a guided tour, try Cruisin' the Castro led by noted GLBT oral historian Trevor Hailey through the gay community of Castro covering historic events and must-see sights along with lunch at the Firewood Restaurant. Tuesday-Saturday at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., but check ahead for specific dates at www.purpleroofs.com
An excellent culture stop is the de Young Art Center (Tuesday - Saturday 10 a.m. - 4:45 p.m. 2501 Irving St.) in Golden Gate Park. Inside you'll find one of the best collections of American art with more than 1,000 works from colonial times through the 20th century.
Contemporary art lovers should spend time at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (Monday - Tuesday and Friday - Sunday 11 a.m. - 6 p.m., Thursday until 9 p.m. Closed Wednesday. 151 Third St.). You can't imagine the breadth of works here from artists such as Jackson Pollock, Paul Klee and Henri Matisse. And because the museum places tremendous focus on photography, you will have the opportunity to see work from Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson and Alfred Stieglitz.
Jay Gifford, a Victorian aficionado, offers a two-hour walking and bus tour around the hills of Pacific Heights -- pointing out architecture inside and outside some 200 restored Victorian homes while imparting some fairly good local gossip. For Hollywood fans, this tour gives you a chance to see the house used in "Mrs. Doubtfire" as well as the one featured on "Party of Five." For more information about this Victorian Walk Tour, visit www.victorianwalk.com.
Head out about 12 miles beyond the Golden Gate for a walk in Muir Woods (it will probably seem familiar to the kids since scenes from "Return of the Jedi" were filmed here). The ancient redwoods are jaw-droppingly gorgeous as you walk along trails marked for 30-, 60- and 90-minute hikes. Mill Valley.
Take a 30-minute year-round ferry ride to Sausalito, a seaside village on the Bay. Visit the art galleries, shops and restaurants, or take a stroll through a park guarded by large concrete elephants -- erected for the 1915 San Francisco Panama Pacific International Exposition. If you're planning for an overnight stay, consider any one of the three guestrooms at the 1907 Ark de Triumph or Casa Madrona's cluster of cottages.
Even if you don't rent a car, California's wine country is accessible: Take an eight-hour luxury bus tour with the Blue & Gold Fleet through Sonoma and Napa that allows for three wine-tasting stops, tours and time for lunch. Buses depart daily at 9:15 a.m. from Pier 43, Fisherman's Wharf.
Lunching
Dungeness crab, Chinook salmon and Pacific herring are some of the leading delicacies, particularly at Fisherman's Wharf, where most of the restaurants are aimed at the casual day-tripper or tourist. But San Francisco also offers cuisines from all corners of the world -- from Chinatown to North Beach, San Francisco's own "Little Italy" -- for those watching their budgets and those looking to splurge.
Best by the Wharf: Fog City Diner (11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m. Monday - Thursday, with a 10:30 a.m. opening on the weekends, and 11 p.m. closing on Friday and Saturday nights. 1300 Battery St) is a nouvelle restaurant housed in a beautifully restored diner. Weekend brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays until 3 p.m. The lunch and dinner menus feature everything from practical fare to imaginative cuisine (and there's fabulous wine list).
The Locals Recommend: Mama's on Washington Square (Tuesday - Sunday 8 a.m. - 3 p.m. No credit cards. 1701 Stockton St.). Locals consider this the number one spot for served-all-day breakfast, but the lunch menu is pretty awesome, too -- so definitely put up with the long wait for a table. Everything is delicious and made right there. You will not believe the whites-only egg creations. The Stinking Rose (Daily 11 a.m. - 11 p.m. 325 Columbus Ave) is a beloved North Beach institution. But be forewarned ... ya gotta love garlic! It's in everything, including the ice cream. Start with their Bagna Calda, which is garlic cloves, oven-roasted in olive oil and butter with a hint of anchovy then served in an iron skillet with plenty of just-baked buns.
Gourmet Options: Aqua: (Monday - Friday 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. 252 California St. ) They offer a handful of terrific lunch options ... from the two-course Business Lunch to the five-course Seasonal Tasting Menu. Oh, the foie gras ravioli! Reservations a must. Tommy Toy: (Monday - Friday 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. 655 Montgomery St.) Their signature seafood bisque and vanilla prawns are worth dressing up a bit to dine here.
In Town for Dinner: Delfina (Sunday - Thursday 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m., Friday - Saturday until 11 p.m. 3621 18th St.) offers unfussy Italian ... and you're bound to spot a celeb or two. If on the menu, the Chianti-braised short ribs with polenta are divine. The Fifth Floor (Monday - Thursday 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m, Friday - Saturday until 11 p.m. 12 Fourth St.) is one of the best restaurants in town. Signature dishes include foie gras ravioli with caramelized Napa cabbage, and poached pork with a blackened peppercorn crust. Reservations are a must.
Accommodations
Closest to the Port: The Tuscan Inn is a boutique hotel at Fisherman's Wharf, just steps from the pier with comfy rooms well-priced from just $129 per night. Nintendo is hooked up to the TV for the youngsters (or young at heart) in the family. Another reliable standby is the Holiday Inn Fisherman's Wharf.
Get out of Town: For the charm of a bed and breakfast -- with the added bonus of a 3,000-square-ft. spa -- stay across the bay at Sausalito's Casa Madrona, a 19th-century mansion filled with four-poster beds. Rates start from $159 per night.
Total Splurge: The contemporary Campton Place is one of the nicest hotels in the world with luxurious limestone bathrooms, a rooftop fitness center an on-site four-star restaurant. Another plus: Campton is centrally located just steps from Union square. Special rates from $285 per night are offered. Upscale fallback: Mandarin-Oriental.
Budget Hipster: The Phoenix Hotel, near the Civic Center, is dubbed the city's "rock and roll hotel," having hosted names like Linda Ronstadt, David Bowie, Pearl Jam, Norah Jones and even Nirvana. The property features 44 cool tropical bungalow rooms, free parking, on-call massages and a great lounge that draws hipster locals. Room rates begin at a modest $139 per night.
Shore Excursions
This port, often a point of embarkation, is easy to explore independently. However, there are a few excursions offered by the cruise lines; here are two we recommend:
Best Overall Tour: For a sampler of attractions -- often with an airport transfer -- consider a ship-sponsored motorcoach tour of San Francisco; stops on the five-hour city circuit include Market Street, Golden Gate Park, Ghirardeli Square and Fisherman's Wharf.
Best for Families: Kids will enjoy exploring the small creepy cells of Alcatraz; for the grownups, a self-guided audio tour and documentary film offer the history of the infamous prison. Shore tours include the ferry ride to and from Alcatraz -- and photo ops of the San Francisco Bay and Golden Gate Bridge. Approximately 4 - 5 hours.
Staying in Touch
Chat Cafe, 498 Sanchez St.
Brainwash, 1122 Folsom St.
Copy Central, 110 Sutter St.
Kinko's, 1967 Market St.
For More Information
Call 415-283-0177
On the Web: www.sfvisitor.org
Cruise Critic Message Boards: United States
The Independent Traveler: San Francisco Exchange
--by Lauren Price.
Photos appear courtesy of the San Francisco Tourist Board.
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