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Sitka Overview
Over the centuries, Sitka -- easily Alaska's most exotic port -- has reinvented itself over and over again. It's been home to the Tlingit Indian Tribe, a Russian empire and a former booming pulp mill, and served as a center for commercial fishing. Through it all, its residents have always figured out a way to get the best out of their resources. Today, the 8,600 locals still rely on their natural surroundings, but with an eye toward the burgeoning tourism market.
Sitka, located on the west side of Baranof Island (a 100-mile-long island in the panhandle of Alaska), is only accessible by air and sea. The Tongass National Forest covers the island except the inhabited area around the town, with roads extending along the Pacific coast about seven miles in either direction from Sitka. Halibut Point Road heads northwest toward the ferry terminal while Sawmill Creek Road runs eastward to where the old pulp mill was located (now Sawmill Cove Industrial Park). The southeast corner of Sitka features the O'Connell Bridge that crosses from downtown via Harbor Drive to Japonski Island (the location of the Sitka Airport). This is also where you'll find Mount Edgecumbe, a dormant volcano and Mount Fuji look-alike.
A bit of history: In 1799, Alexander Baranof, the general manager of the Russian American Company, moved his operations from Kodiak to Sitka, but was met with a little resistance from the Tlingit Indians. When Baranof was away on vacation in 1804 the Indians burned down his fort and massacred the Russian settlers. On his return, he reclaimed and rebuilt the fort, and for over six decades this was the capital of the Russian Empire in Alaska. Its residents enjoyed the riches of sea otter pelt sales and Sitka was coined the "Paris of the Pacific." In 1867, after the sea otters had been slaughtered almost to extinction, Russia sold Alaska to the U.S. for $7.2 million. The Russian flag was lowered and the Stars and Stripes of America were raised over newly renamed Sitka, Tlingit for "by the sea." Unfortunately, the thriving community faltered in the next 50 years, and in 1906 the capital of Alaska was moved from Sitka to Juneau. The move was a direct result of the gold rush -- Sitka didn't have any and Juneau did.
Boom times came and went again in Sitka as the Alaska Lumber and Pulp Company built and operated a pulp mill near the city, employing 450 Sitkans from 1959 to 1993. Today the former site of the pulp mill has many new purposes. The Sawmill Cove Industrial Park's tenants include a 15-acre water bottling plant, a salmon processing plant, a chocolate factory, the city's recycling center and a 3/4-acre bear refuge. And although each summer Sitka welcomes 250,000 cruise ship passengers bringing economic stimulus, Sitka is primarily known for the quality and quantity of seafood harvested from its waters and processed in its local plants.
Indeed, the legacy of Sitka's cultural prominence lives on in its attractions, all within walking distance of downtown. The whole length of Lincoln Street is approximately one-mile, starting at Sitka's southeast corner (featuring the lookout at Castle Hill) and ending at the National Historic Park to the north. The street passes by the historic onion-shaped domed architecture of St. Michael's Cathedral and the Russian Bishop's House as it follows the Sitka Sound waterfront and Crescent Harbor (the multi-slip marina). The other main street is Katlian Street, a road that follows the waterfront of the Sitka Channel, featuring colorful fishing boats, weathered houses and the essence of a working harbor town.
From the moment you arrive in Sitka and are entertained by the New Archangel Dancers clad in vibrant floral prints and representing the culture of Russia, you'll soon see that Sitka is different from the rest of Alaska. Yet, it's not just about the Russian influence that makes Sitka unique. Her amazingly diverse economic activities contribute to the makeup of the locals, with employment ranging from the commercial fishing industry and tourism to drinking water exportation and even the Alaska State Trooper Academy. In addition to the locals' livelihoods, in May 2008 Sitka was designated a Bicycle Friendly Community by the League of American Bicyclists, confirming the town's commitment to quality of life and their transportation system. But the bottom line is that Sitka is primarily a fishing community, so it's not uncommon to see the locals wearing rubber "X-tra Tuff" boots everywhere -- including restaurants. In fact, in September the residents hold their annual Running of the Boots race, a symbolic "goodbye" to the summer's visitors and "hello" to the returning salmon -- all the while donning rubber boots and zany costumes.
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Other Alaska Cruise Ports:
Haines • Icy Strait • Juneau • Ketchikan • Petersburg • Prince Rupert • Seattle • Sitka • Skagway • Vancouver • Victoria • Whittier
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Best Souvenir
Shop at Russian American Company (407 Lincoln St.) for traditional Matryoshka nesting dolls and for other Russian-made products (from $3 to over $1,000).
For handmade Native Tlingit items, the shop at the Isabel Miller Museum (330 Harbor Dr.) has a unique selection. Intricately carved and hand-painted Potlatch Bowls are a Tlingit symbol of celebration and gift giving (from $55.95). For an inexpensive souvenir, decanter stoppers and wine corks are available in polished pewter with totemic designs such as eagles, otters or ravens ($14.95).
Or sample some chocolate fish; Theobroma Chocolate Company produces chocolate bars in the shape of salmon and halibut. A crate of four mini salmon with a total weight of 3 oz. costs $6.25. They also offer free tours of their chocolate factory and sell bags of overrun chocolate in bulk (4600 Sawmill Creek Rd.).
Where You're Docked
All cruise ships use the anchorages in the Eastern Channel of the Sitka Sound and tender their passengers into town between one of two different docks. One tourist float is located in Crescent Harbor, adjacent to the Harrigan Centennial Building (330 Harbor Dr.) and the other is located under the O'Connell Bridge. (Things may soon change, as the city of Sitka has developed concept plans for a large vessel dock facility at the deepwater docks at Sitka's water bottling plant in Sawmill Cove Industrial Park).
Hanging Around
Since passengers are tendered right into the heart of town, many top attractions are within a few blocks of each other. The tender pier at Crescent Harbor is just steps from the Harrigan Centennial Building, which is home to the Sitka Convention and Visitors Center, the Isabel Miller Museum, and the New Archangel Dancers. On the other hand, the tender pier under the bridge is adjacent to Castle Hill (where Lincoln Street and Harbor Way meet) -- a perfect spot to take some photos.
Getting Around
By foot: From the dock under the O'Connell Bridge, walk straight up Lincoln Street for a few blocks, passing Castle Hill on the right, then St. Michaels Cathedral on the left. Lincoln Street also passes the Russian Bishop House, Crescent Harbor and then ends at Sitka National Historic Park. Pick up maps, brochures and advice from the Sitka Convention and Visitors Center located in the Harrigan Centennial Building near Crescent Harbor.
By bus: Another inexpensive way to travel is by public transit. The small buses stop every 30 minutes at Crescent Harbor, the Sheldon Jackson Museum, Sitka National Historical Park, and the Alaska Raptor Center. Other routes stop at McDonald's and the east end of Sawmill Creek Road. An all-day pass can be purchased on the bus for $5 ($3 for child).
By bike: An active, yet convenient option is to rent a bike from Yellow Jersey Cycle (329 Harbor Dr.). They offer a variety of bike sizes at $25 for the day.
By car: For private cars, there's Hank's Taxi & Tour Service (907-747-8888). Or rent a car from North Star Rent-A-Car (800-722-6927).
Don't Miss
 The Isabel Miller Museum, named after a resident whose collections form the museum's core, is located within the Centennial Building along with the Visitors Center. Discover Sitka's history and international connections since the 1800's through exhibits and artifacts about the Tlingits and the Russians, as well as Sitka's lumber and fishing industry.
New Archangel Dancers: When cruise ships are in town, these dancers perform lively, authentic folk dances from Russia (Harrigan Centennial Building).
Watch a traditional dance performance at the Tlingit Clan House (200 Katlian St.). The performance begins with a resonating box drum as visitors gather around a burning cedar fire pit. For 30 minutes native Tlingit dancers of all ages perform a number of traditional songs.
Castle Hill: With its commanding view of Sitka Sound, this 60-foot-high promontory was once the site of a two-story log-mansion referred to as Baranof's Castle (after Russian Governor Baranof). The original structure burned in a fire in 1894, but this is also the site where the Russian flag was lowered and an American one was raised. Although there are no remaining structures on this site, it's a great place to take pictures (accessible from Lincoln Street).
Built in the mid 1800's, St. Michael's Cathedral was totally destroyed by a fire in 1966. Today, visitors can tour the church rebuilt to its 1844 specifications, complete with its onion-domed architecture. Many of the icons and religious objects were salvaged from the fire and are part of the collection of Russian Orthodox art and church treasures on display (240 Lincoln St.).
Russian Bishop's House (105 Lincoln St.). This National Historic Landmark was built in 1842 as a residence for the Orthodox Bishop. It is one of the oldest examples of Russian architecture in the U.S.
The scenic 107-acre Sitka National Historical Park (known locally as Totem Park) preserves and interprets the site of a Tlingit Indian fort and the battle fought between the Russians and the Indians in 1804. A free self-guided oceanside trail leads past numerous carved totems to the site where the Tlingit fort once stood (106 Metlakatla).
Located within the National Historic Park, the Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center is a unique working artist studio that provides a one-on-one experience for visitors to watch native artists creating hand-chiseled totem poles, silver carvings and beadwork.
Visitors can experience eagles up close at the Alaska Raptor Center (1000 Raptor Way -- off Sawmill Creek Road). This world-class wild bird hospital rehabilitates birds of prey (mostly eagles) that have been rescued, and features an educational center with 25 raptors in their natural habitat. See eagles flying in the state-of-the-art eagle flight center and watch the injured birds receive medical treatment.
Sheldon Jackson Museum: This National Historic Landmark was the first concrete building in Alaska when it was built in 1895. It houses a collection of native art and Russian artifacts including indigenous masks, boats and hunting tools. Check out the rain gear made of walrus intestines that was once worn while butchering whales (104 College Dr. -- just off Lincoln Street).
Been There, Done That
Flightseeing: Harris Aircraft Services (400 Airport Rd., 877-966-3050) operates a floatplane business that takes visitors on 30-minute flight-seeing tours over the dormant volcano of Mt. Edgecumbe, as well as the ice fields of Baranof Island. After the flight, enjoy the soft touchdown that comes with landing on the water.
Fortress of the Bear: See brown bears up close. In the summer of 2007 the Alaska Department of Fish and Game issued a permit to a nonprofit corporation to create a humane home and natural setting for nuisance bears, and to provide an educational experience for locals and tourists. The 3/4-acre bear refuge is located at the Sawmill Cove Industrial Park (4600 Sawmill Creek Rd.).
Hiking: A 10-minute walk from downtown Sitka will put you on the fringe of true wilderness with access to numerous marked hiking trails. The Gavin Hill Trail is a 3-mile moderate to strenuous hike with boardwalks, some steeper sections, and a view of the Sitka Sound from the summit. The Sitka Ranger District of the U.S. Forest Service publishes a guide called "Sitka Trails" which you can pick up at their office (204 Siginaka, off Katlian Street). Or you can check out other trail descriptions online at www.travelsitka.com.
Chocolate Factory Tour: Take a tour of the delightful Theobroma Chocolate Company (4600 Sawmill Creek Rd.) and you will be offered a free sample of their deliciously decadent chocolate truffles.
Lunching
For such a small town, Sitka has numerous quality restaurants to choose from. Although many restaurants are within the downtown area, some of the good ones are located on the outskirts and are worth the extra effort to get to them. Seafood is a staple of this thriving fishing community, with halibut and salmon served up as fresh as can be, and water view restaurants are the norm. Also consider that Sitka doesn't rely solely on tourism, so the evidence of year-round residents in any of the restaurants is a great barometer of consistent food quality and service. You know when a restaurant is popular with the locals by the number of pickups parked out front at lunchtime.
Best for Local Eats: Victoria's Restaurant in the Sitka Hotel (118 Lincoln St., by Katlian Street) features locally caught halibut served a number of ways. This friendly small-town diner is decorated with Victorian-style knick-knacks and lacey curtains, and the menu is simple and budget-friendly. Try the halibut wrap, an herb tortilla stuffed with halibut and served with salsa and sour cream. Another alternative is The Backdoor (104 Barracks, behind Old Harbor Bookstore on Lincoln), a cozy downtown coffee house filled with local artwork and serving custom-roasted espresso, homemade soup, bagel sandwiches and pastries.
Best for an Upscale Treat: Channel Club (2906 Halibut Point Rd., 907-747-7440) reinvented itself when new owners demolished the place in 2006 and spent the last two years rebuilding it. The restaurant now features post and beam construction with 20-foot-high ceilings, large windows that overlook the Sitka Sound, and walls adorned with black-and-white historic photos of Sitka along with local artwork. The owners have a processing license guaranteeing their customers Alaskan seafood at its freshest, and the locals consistently pack the 126-seat restaurant indulging in perfectly cooked steaks, fresh Alaskan halibut, salmon and King crab legs, and their signature salad bar. Pile your plate at the salad bar (unlimited with meal), which is stocked with an eclectic mix of greens, grilled and marinated red and yellow peppers, and their smoked salmon chowder soup. Being that this place is a little bit out of the way, they also offer a free courtesy van to pick up their patrons.
Best For Families: Lane 7 (236 Katlian St.) claims to have the best milkshakes in Sitka -- possibly the biggest too at 21 oz. They also feature kids' "Smiley Meals" with a selection of typical favorites, such as grilled cheese with fries and a brownie. Adults can order from an extensive "Burger Basket" menu, including the Teriyaki burger, marinated and topped with a grilled pineapple ring. Sitka also has a McDonald's (913 Halibut Point Road) and it's located right on the waterfront with views of a marina. Not to be missed are the bald eagles that frequently sit in a tree above the drive-thru lane.
Staying in Touch
The Highliner Cafe offers Internet and cordless phone services, and they also serve fresh baked breakfast stuffed croissants and cakes (327 Seward St. -- by St. Michael's Cathedral).
Shore Excursions
Best Overall Tour: Most cruise lines offer a combined walking and motor coach excursion that features a tour through the Raptor Center, a visit to the Sitka National Historic Park, a performance from the New Archangel Dancers, a drive by Castle Hill, and also includes a stop at St. Michael's Cathedral. Holland America Line's Historic Russian America & Raptor Center Tour is just one example of this four-hour outing.
Best for Active Travelers: The Advanced Bike Adventure offered by Regent Seven Seas, Holland America Line and Princess Cruises is designed for the experienced mountain biker. The tour starts downtown, parallels the coast, passes the old Alaska Pulp Mill site, and features waterfalls. This strenuous ride gains 500 feet of elevation on the way up to an alpine lake (approximately four hours). Looking for a unique tour? The Dry Suit Snorkel offered by most of the cruise lines, including Celebrity Cruises, allows guests the opportunity to explore the underwater world of Sitka Sound in the cozy comfort of a buoyant dry suit that fits right over top of street clothes (approximately 2.5 hours). Celebrity Cruises also offers a Dry Suit Dive Certification excursion that includes two open water dives (approximately seven hours). Most cruise lines also offer some sort of salmon or halibut fishing excursion. Sitka's unique position on the outside coast makes the chance of catching a fish here very high. The best part is that your catch can be processed locally and shipped home. Holland America Line offers their All-Day Salmon & Halibut Fishing that lasts eight hours.
Best for Nature Lovers: For a guided hike, most of the cruise lines offer at least one option. The Tongass Rainforest Hike covers four miles and includes mountain views, a boardwalk through the Starrigavin Estuary bird sanctuary, and a walk along a beach (approximately three hours).
Best for Families: See Sitka from the water by taking an escorted sea-kayaking trip offered by all the cruise lines. The Wilderness Sea Kayaking Adventure features a 1.5-hour guided tour in two-person kayaks for participants as young as six years old. An alternate tour is the two-hour excursion to the "deep" via a semi-submersible boat. The Sea Life Discovery by Semi-Sub excursion features large underwater viewing windows providing you with up-close encounters with the undersea world, including jellyfish, crabs and starfish.
For More Information
Sitka Convention & Visitors' Bureau: 907-747-5940
On the Web: www.sitka.org
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Alaska
The Independent Traveler Message Boards: Alaska
--by Renee Ruggero, a Canadian-based freelance writer. Her articles have appeared in Porthole Magazine and Cruise Travel magazine.
--photos appear courtesy of the Alaska Travel Industry Association
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