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Whittier Overview
Where? You're forgiven if you've never before heard of Whittier. Other than as a gateway to the glacier- and wildlife-filled Prince William Sound, most people have had no reason to come here. Except, and this is a big except, Whittier is now experiencing a Gold Rush of sorts as an alternative embarkation and disembarkation port to ship-crowded Seward.
Despite the Sound views, quaint it's not -- the feel is very industrial and military (the town holds a strategic position on the Alaska Railroad and at the head of a deep fjord; during World War II it was a key port in the defense strategy for the state). Weather is often nasty, with whipping winds and lots of rain, particularly in the winter.
Still, the tiny city of about 180 residents is a natural benefit for cruise lines sailing Alaska itineraries, actually more than an hour closer to Anchorage than Seward (it takes about 90 minutes to get to Whittier from the Anchorage airport). Both Princess and Carnival are in town (Princess arrived in 2004 and Carnival was added in 2005), and Norwegian Cruise Line also now visits as a port of call. Some 200,000 cruise passengers a summer are now part of the Whittier scene.
How an increased cruise presence will change this scene is unclear. What visitors will find today, however, is a really odd-ball place where nearly all the residents live in a single, 14-story concrete apartment building (and most others live in a second building). Kids in the apartment building don't even have to go outside to go to school in winter -- a tunnel leads to their classrooms (the average amount of snow on the ground on any given day between December and April is 33.8 inches)!
Getting into town is, however, one of the highlights of a visit: The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel is like no other. You enter what looks like a Swiss Chalet structure and ride for 2.5 miles on a railroad track through the narrow pass cut into a mountain. The tunnel is actually shared by rail and vehicle traffic -- when one is inside the other is not; they switch every half hour.
If you are planning an overnight stay before or after your cruise, we highly recommend staying in Anchorage because there is much more to see and do in town, and more accommodation options. However, we have also included a few suggestions for places to stay in Whittier if you are feeling a bit adventurous.
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Other Alaska Cruise Ports:
Haines • Icy Strait • Juneau • Ketchikan • Petersburg • Prince Rupert • Seattle • Sitka • Skagway • Vancouver • Victoria • Whittier
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Where You're Docked
The new cruise ship terminal, located at the mouth of Whittier Creek, doesn't offer much other than efficient check-in and disembarkation facilities; a rack offers brochures on tours, eateries and the few shops. There is no tourist office. Parking in Whittier is $5 per day (and the tunnel toll is $12).
Getting Around
For people who are coming independently from Anchorage, and do not have a cruise line transfer, check out The Magic Bus, which departs from the Anchorage Museum of History and Fine Art at 7th and A streets at 3 p.m., Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays; the trip takes about 90 minutes and costs $49 ($24.50 for kids). For reservations, call 800-208-0200, or visit www.alaskatravel.com. You can also get there by train: Call the Alaska Railroad at 800-544-0552 or visit www.alaskarailroad.com; the trip costs $64 for adults (half price for kids) and takes about 2.5 hours.
Once you're docked, enter town via train, bus or car through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel as mentioned above. Once in town, there is no need for taxis or shuttles -- everything in town is within walking distance.
Don't Miss
 Begich Towers is the main residence in town and is what you'd expect of a 1940's military structure including dark, narrow halls. Although you obviously cannot enter residents' apartments, anyone can go inside the building: Everything in town is here including the grocery store on the first floor and a medical clinic on the third. Keep in mind that most people living in one building is an unusual setup, even for quirky Alaska.
Go fishing. About 30 charter fishing boats operate out of Whittier. The Whittier Harbormaster keeps a list (call 907-472-2337). You can arrange to ship what you catch back home.
Been There, Done That
Head off in search of glaciers. Phillips' Cruises and Tours (800-544-0529; www.26glaciers.com) offers a 4.5-hour, 26-glacier cruise of the Sound on a fast three-deck catamaran, counting the glaciers as they go. Major Marine Tours (800-764-7300; www.majormarine.com) operates a smaller, 149-passenger vessel that visits 10 glaciers and puts an emphasis on food with an all-you-can-eat salmon and prime rib buffet.
See a whale. Sound Eco Adventures (888-471-2312; www.soundecoadventure.com) features a retired wildlife biologist who specializes in whale-watching tours.
Lunching
Head to the waterfront for the few shops and restaurants. There's a good Chinese place, the Korean-owned China Sea (907-472-2222), that features specials like Kung Pao halibut.
The Tunnel End Cafe (907-472-3000) is the place for espresso, breakfast (including egg burritos) and lunchtime sandwiches.
Shore Excursions
Best Choice for Adventure Seekers: Kayaking in Prince William Sound, you can experience the natural beauty of the fjord. Your guide will provide narration. Keep an eye out for otters and other marine wildlife.
Best Choice for Relaxing Sightseeing: The Blackstone Glacier Cruise takes you on a cruise of scenic Prince William Sound where you may spot otters, sea lions, seals, orca whales and other sea life. You also cruise into Blackstone Bay, home of two tidewater glaciers (tidewater glaciers are unique in that they are in direct contact with the water, and are responsible for calving many small icebergs).
Accommodations
Your best bet is to stay in Anchorage. Here are a few options.
Best for Families: Consider the newly refurbished Millennium Hotel (480 Spenard; 800-544-0553). Children under the age of 17 stay free in same room as their parent(s), and the property is located just one mile from the airport.
Middle of the Road: The Westmark Anchorage (720 W. 5th Ave.; 800-544-0970), six miles from the airport, offers private balconies in every room for reasonable rates; the hotel also features a sushi bar and tour desk.
Best for a Splurge: Hotel Captain Cook (4th and K Street; 800-843-1950), six miles from the airport, offers luxe accommodations, a salon and spa, and several sophisticated restaurants.
If you decide to stay in Whittier:
Live Like the Locals: On the top two floors of Begich Towers, June's Whittier Bed and Breakfast Condo Suites (Begich Towers; 888-472-2396) allows guests to experience the local way of life including great views and hummingbirds feeding at your windows. All 10 condos have full kitchens.
Cozy B&B: The six-unit Soundview Getaway Bed and Breakfast (Blackstone St.; 800-515-2358) houses guests in the historic Bachelor's Officers Quarters, which date back to Whittier's World War II military days (some of the original fixtures remain). Each unit has a full kitchen and sitting area and continental breakfast is free.
Staying in Touch
You'll have to use your ship's Internet cafe.
For More Information
Visit the Official Web site of the City of Whittier, www.ci.whitter.ak.us
Visit the Whittier Chamber of Commerce Web site at www.whittieralaska.com
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--By Fran Wenograd Golden. Boston-based Golden, whose contributions to Cruise Critic include features, ship reviews and destination-oriented port profiles, is the travel editor of the Boston Herald and also co-author of Frommer's Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call.
Photo of biker is copyright ATIA/Frank Flavin.
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 Shore Excursions
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