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St. Maarten Overview
St. Maarten is rapidly becoming the Eastern Caribbean's next St. Thomas -- its duty-free shopping rivals, if not exceeds, that of that U.S. Virgin Island -- and, increasingly, cruise lines are calling with their biggest, post-Panamax ships (on a recent spring trip we estimated there were six ships carrying about 18,000 passengers).
That's both good news and bad news for this unique port of call, which, along with neighboring St. Martin, is the world's smallest island inhabited by two countries. St. Maarten is, of course, governed by the Netherlands Antilles while St. Martin is part of the French West Indies. What's particularly fun is that barring huge traffic jams, you can easily swing back and forth from the Dutch to the French sides, and enjoy the best of both.
On either side of the mountainous island, there are lovely -- rivaling the best in the Caribbean -- beaches, including the clothing-optional part of Orient Beach. Its duty-free prices for electronics and liquor (these shops are primarily found in St. Maarten's Philipsburg) may well be the best in the Caribbean. And the restaurants, cafes and designer boutiques of St. Martin's Marigot definitely possess a distinctive je ne sais quoi.
St. Maarten, like many other Caribbean islands, was spotted by Christopher Columbus in 1493. But the island's real history began with French and Dutch settlers who divided the island in 1648. They have lived side by side ever since. St. Maarten gained partial independence from the Netherlands in 1954.
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Other Eastern Caribbean Cruise Ports:
Casa de Campo • Freeport • Grand Turk • Jost Van Dyke • Nassau • San Juan • St. Croix • St. John, USVI • St. Maarten • St. Martin • St. Thomas • Tortola • Virgin Gorda
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Best Cocktail
Guavaberry Colada (the liqueur is made from the Guava fruit, a tart berry). You can actually sample it -- for free -- at the Guavaberry shop on Front Street.
Where You're Docked
The A.C. Wathey Pier & Port Facility, St. Maarten's new pier and cruise terminal, is a boon to cruise passengers, especially those who find tendering unpleasant, inconvenient or physically challenging. In most cases ships will dock here, but on busy days tendering to Little Pier, right in the heart of Philipsburg, is still a possibility.
Getting Around
On Foot: The main on-foot attraction at the base of the new pier is a set of duty-free shops. Though you can hike the 20-minute route into downtown Philipsburg, the streets are narrow and there are no sidewalks (and the views are incredibly un-scenic to boot) -- take the Water Taxi instead.
Taxis: In the past taxi operators in St. Maarten were totally independent, setting their own rates and schedules. Now they are under government regulation -- though we heard grousing from some passengers that it was better in the good old days when you could negotiate a price with a cab driver and get a personalized island tour thrown in to boot.
The problem was that if you just wanted, for example, to go directly to Marigot on the French side, drivers would often refuse to take you, waiting for the possibility of a group seeking a more lucrative island tour. We think things are better under the new system, where passengers at the new port facility queue up under signs designating per-person rates and destinations -- everything from one-way to Philipsburg to a full island tour.
Vehicles range from standard taxis to large vans and open safari-style vehicles, and rates improve based on the number in your party. The per-person savings aren't that huge, so if you are on a tight schedule and don't know your taxi-mates well, it's probably best to go it alone, lest one of them pipes up that they want to add an island tour or a detour to the beach.
Water Taxi: A water taxi operates between the cruise pier and the heart of downtown Philipsburg; cost is $3 each way (a roundtrip discount price of $5 is often available).
Renting a Car: This is a destination where renting a car can be a benefit (particularly if you have four or more people and want to see sights on both St. Maarten and St. Martin). There are a handful of agencies at the cruise pier.
What's Nearby
A five-minute walk from the cruise terminal (going toward Philipsburg) takes you to the small boat marina punningly named Dock Maarten. Here there are a few shops, water taxi and boat tour operators, as well as the popular waterfront bar and grill, Chesterfield's (see Lunching, below).
Philipsburg's very walkable downtown is a definite duty-free shopping destination; great buys can be found on electronics (one cruiser bought a $300 camcorder that would've cost more than twice that at home), liquor (such as Absolut vodka for $5) and jewelry. There's also a small beach where you can rent chairs and umbrellas and several restaurants adn bars if you are looking for a place nearby to hang for the day.
Don't Miss
Shopping in Philipsburg, naturally; the town, whose main drags of Front and Old Street are crammed with duty-free jewelry shops, electronics (bargaining recommended) and liquor.
Scuba diving around Proselyte Reef, which is named for the British frigate HMS Proselyte, which sank here in 1801. It lies in depths ranging from 15 - 45 feet. Divers need to book through a local dive site operator; these include Aqua Mania Adventures, Dive Safaris, Ocean Explorers Dive Center, Simpson Bay, The Scuba Shop and Scuba Fun.
St. Maarten 12 Metre Regatta consists of yachts that raced in the 1987 America's Cup; you can sign up through your cruise ship or through a hotel (cost is $70 for a three-hour activity). Be prepared to pitch in -- everything from trimming sails and winching to being the cooler queen (passing out sodas). Email metres12@hotmail.com for more info.
Check out Editor's Picks: Offbeat St. Maarten for more sightseeing options.
Been There, Done That
Shopping: For offbeat finds in Philipsburg, consider Greenwith Gallery (33 Front Street) for a wide variety of Caribbean artwork and upscale crafts, Dutch Delft Gallery (37 Front Street), Ikemba-African Art Gallery (125 Front Street) and the Belgium Chocolate Factory (Old Street Arcade).
Horseback riding: Novice riders and experts alike can enjoy horseback rides across St. Maarten's beaches or along nature trails leading to hidden coves and waterfalls. Lucky Stables at Seaside Nature Park offers one- to two-hour rides starting at $60, and Bayside Riding Club offers one- and one-and-a-half-hour beach rides, as well as pony rides and lessons.
Marigot, St. Martin: This hub of the French St. Martin is filled with designer boutiques and fabulous restaurants, bistros and cafes (duty-free merchandise, while occasionally available, isn't as much a focus). In Marigot, don't miss Marina Royale. A block or two from downtown, what was once simply a hangout and destination marina for yachties has come into its own during the last three years or so, with shoulder-to-shoulder waterfront cafes and bistros, crafts shops and trendy boutiques. For some spectacular -- though pricey -- museum-quality Haitian art, visit Gingerbread Gallerie.
Take a trip to the isle of Anguilla. This peaceful British-affiliated island, about a 25-minute ferry ride from Marigot, is known for its gorgeous white sand beaches and phenomenal gourmet restaurants. At the ferry terminal here taxis are available. Most folks head straight to Shoal Bay (east), full of activity and barbecue shacks, and fronting tranquil waters. Another option, especially for foodies: Ask the taxi driver to take you to Trattoria Tramonto, a fabulous waterfront Italian restaurant on Shoal Bay West (the restaurant offers free lounge chairs for lunch guests); make sure you arrange for the cabbie to pick you up again! Logistical note: Ferries operate between Blowing Point (Anguilla) and Marigot every half-hour or so during the day. Cost each way is $12 and is paid in cash onboard. Both St. Martin and Anguilla charge "departure" fees ($2 and $3 respectively). Critical: make sure you bring your passport, or you'll be denied entry.
Beaches
Best Beach for a Half-Day Visit: Mullet Bay.
Best Beach for the Dedicated Beach Bum: Orient Beach, aka Baie Orientale, is located in St. Martin but is an easy taxi ride from Philipsburg. The beach has a section for nudists as well as more crowded areas for plain ol' beach bums. You can rent water gear and beach lounges, and there are numerous bars and food shacks. Windsurfing is good here and you can rent equipment.
Best Beach for Active Types: Dawn Beach for snorkeling and body surfing.
Secluded Beach: Cupecoy Beach, which has caves and rock cliffs, has lots of private nooks and crannies. Also, try Dawn Beach for snorkeling.
Lunching
On the Dutch Side
Casual, In-Town Joints: Chesterfield's (Great Bay Marina) and The Greenhouse (Bobby's Marina), both open from 11 a.m.
Gourmet Lunching: L'escargot, for French (84 Front Street, 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. weekdays); St. Antoine, for French and Creole (103 Front Street, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. every day).
On the French Side
In Marigot: With lovely views of Marigot harbor, l'Oiseau Rare (formerly La Maison sur La Port) serves excellent French bistro cuisine in an open verandah setting surrounding a fountain, specializing in seafood and lighter fare. Le Mini Club (a k a Claude Mini-Club) has been serving French and Creole cuisine since the 1970's in a seaside tree house ambience. (Palm trees grow right through the two stories of the restaurant, and out through the roof). The "must-order" here is vivaneau (red snapper) with sauce Creole.
In Marina Royale: The spot on our A-List here is Tropicana, which keeps 'em coming back with HUGE salad creations, our favorite being the pergordine (duck breast, sauteed potatoes and brie baked in phyllo dough).
Staying in Touch
Internet Paradise (corner of Front Street and Yrausquin Boulevard).
For More Information
On the Web: www.st-maarten.com
Cruise Critic Message Boards: St. Maarten
The Independent Traveler: Caribbean Exchange
Image of "Pristine Beach" appears courtesy of Celebrity Cruises. Image of St. Martin shopping appears courtesy of the Saint Martin Tourist Office.
Updated by Steve Faber. San Francisco-based Faber is a longtime contributor to Cruise Critic
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