The Estate Whim Plantation |
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St. Croix Overview
If you haven't been to St. Croix's Frederiksted lately -- or ever (chances are if you have cruised the Eastern or Southern Caribbean recently, you've missed it -- this sleepy village, the island's primary cruise port, is in the midst of a major transformation. Indeed, there are so many different restoration efforts going on, particularly along the seafront, that the clamor of construction may drown out the sound of seabirds.
It'll be worth it.
See, St. Croix's had a bad run of late. Though never the duty-free mecca of St. Thomas, St. Croix, the largest U.S. Virgin Island, had long been a popular port of call for cruise ships, and for good reason. The island offers scores of nature activities and water sports, from horseback riding through the rain forest to some of the region's best scuba diving and snorkeling. St. Croix is ripe with historic artifacts, such as Ft. Frederiksted, the Estate Whim Plantation and Christiansted's numerous monuments. There are many remnants of St. Croix's early days as a major producer of rum -- and its numerous sugar plantations.
But then a rash of crime incidents -- muggings and hold-ups -- against both cruise ship passengers and crew began to discourage itinerary planners from featuring St. Croix as a port of call (check out our report the last time there was major news about the island -- in 2004!). Indeed, ships rarely visit these days; the island gets, according to locals, maybe six ship calls a year (compare that to St. Thomas which averages six a day in high season)!
Even so, in a spirit of noble optimism, tourism officials embarked on an upgrade program for the port in Frederiksted that's the most ambitious we've seen in the Caribbean. The area surrounding the pier has been landscaped with lush gardens, cozy benches, and a shopping area consisting of a range of gazebos. Lovely iron torchlights provide illumination and a period ambience. The waterfront, too, was landscaped all along Strand Street; it's a lovely place to walk beside the sea.
And Frederiksted , which on my last visit five years ago was dirty, tacky and rundown, has bloomed, at least on the waterfront; venture into back streets and it's still pretty rundown. The restorations going on all along Strand Street have resulted in a general refurbishment of the once-peeling 17th- and 18th-century Danish-style buildings. The arts have been reborn in the new Caribbean Museum Center here. The historic Ft. Frederiksted, part of a fascinating program called Virgin Island Danish Apprenticeship (VIDA), is a laboratory of sorts for students from St. Croix and from Denmark to learn technical skills.
Even with the new look, Frederiksted itself is still a place otherwise too sleepy to ensnare cruise visitors for long -- Sunny Daze Boutique, the only shop on Strand Street, was closed during our ship's visit, there's no Internet cafe and you'll find only a handle of eateries. But it offers a lovely welcome to St. Croix itself, and Christensted and the island's rural endeavors aren't too far away.
As well, you have to admire a government that so longs for cruise ships to call that it invests millions in the facility to greet them. Now local officials can only wait and hope that, as in "Field of Dreams" the mantra "if you build it they will come" will prove true here, too.
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Other Eastern Caribbean Cruise Ports:
Casa de Campo • Freeport • Grand Turk • Jost Van Dyke • Nassau • San Juan • St. Croix • St. John, USVI • St. Maarten • St. Martin • St. Thomas • Tortola • Virgin Gorda
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Best Cocktail
The Virgin Islands' Cruzan rum is still made here; try a snifter of Cruzan Single Barrel.
Where You're Docked
You'll dock at the pier in Frederiksted, the island's second largest town, unless your ship carries less than 200 passengers (then it can dock in Christiansted).
Getting Around
On Foot: Visit the nearby Caribbean Museum Center for the Arts and the Ft. Frederick National Historic Monument or stroll along the revitalized waterfront.
By Taxi: Taxis congregate at the foot of the pier. The government sets prices and lists them here. A one-way trip to Christiansted is $24 for two people, for instance.
By Car: Most rental agencies are based either in Christiansted or the airport but Frederiksted does have one: Olympic-Ace (340-772-2000), Custom House Street, from $42 a day. Reservations are helpful but not always necessary.
Hanging Around
The Ft. Frederik Museum, the Caribbean Museum Center for the Arts and a handful of restaurants are all nearby.
Don't Miss
 In Frederiksted, pay a call at Fort Frederik (just to the left as you exit the pier). Built in 1760, it's a National Historic Landmark. The one-time Danish coastal fortress (open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. until 4 p.m., $3, under 16 free) now houses historic artifacts pertaining to Virgin Islands' history. The Fort has some intriguing claims to fame, according to curator Bruce Tilden. It was the site of a major emancipation rally to free slaves in 1848. And even earlier, a Danish soldier at the fort in October 26, 1776 was the first foreigner to salute a ship belonging to the United States of America. It was a big moment for the patriots.
As well, the Caribbean Museum Center for the Arts (10 Strand Street), which showcases revolving shows that primarily focus on regional artists, is a small but growing institution in the center of town. Its plans are ambitious: to be the leading source of Caribbean art in the region. Still under major refurbishment, the center will by fall 2007 comprise two floors of gallery space, with a gift shop that offers lovely souvenirs ranging from affordable note cards to gorgeous, handmade mahogany rocking chairs; at $995 apiece, they're made to order (and they'll ship!).
Historic Christiansted is a 17-mile cab ride from Frederiksted. History buffs should take the walking tour, which showcases structures such as Fort Christiansvaern, the Virgin Islands' best preserved colonial fort. Start at the Visitor Center, which itself has some history; it was known as Old Scalehouse when it was built in the mid 19th century.
Christiansted's also got an arty side; it's adopted the SOHO moniker for its cluster of art galleries and studios. Among them include the Mitchell-Larsen Studio (Company Street south of Hospital Street) for glass and photography, the Yellow House Gallery for St. Croix artist Judith King's oil paintings and bead and wire jewelry designs, and Folk Art Traders (2 Strand Street) for unique paintings and sculpture.
The Estate Whim Plantation Museum, two miles east of Frederiksted, is a three-room historically restored plantation house that dates back to the era of the Danes; there's a fantastic gift shop on site.
Nearby, the Cruzan Rum Factory offers free guided tours.
There are snorkeling trails Buck Island National Park, an 800-acre uninhabited island that is America's only underwater national monument. Buck Island Tours (340-773-4482), which uses catamarans, offers full (9:30 a.m. until 3:30 p.m., $70) and half (noon until 4:30 p.m., $45) day trips. Price includes snorkeling gear and instruction; full day trip also includes a barbecue lunch on the beach. Advance reservations -- at least 24 hours in advance -- are absolutely required.
Been There, Done That
Paul and Jill's Stable and Farm (340-772-2880) on the west end of St. Croix, offers horseback riding just five minutes from Frederiksted. A 1 1/2 hour ride is $50 per person and includes scenic areas such as the rain forest, pasture and hill view of the cruise ship harbor. Reservations -- a week prior to cruise is the minimum -- are recommended. Rides take place at 10:30 a.m.
Go scuba diving at Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve. This is the site of the original Carib village and the bay where Christopher Columbus docked -- but did not set foot on land. Another great spot is Cane Bay. In Frederiksted, Cane Bay Dive Shop (340-773-9913) has a dive shop on Strand.
Beaches
Best Beach for a Half-Day Visit: Closest to the Frederiksted pier is Sandy Point, a huge stretch of sand (leatherback and green sea turtles nest here April through June).
Best Beach for the Dedicated Beach Bum and Scuba Divers: Cane Bay, on the north shore, is a major destination for snorkelers (an undersea wall is deep enough for naval submarines to launch practice missions; it drops some 13,200 feet just 25 to 40 ft. offshore). There are some terrific beach bars (both serve food as well) at Cane Bay, including the legendary Off The Wall.
Best Beach for Active Types: Hotel on the Cay offers access to all manner of beach equipment and activities, from WaveRunners to parasailing.
Lunching
Casual, in-town joints in Frederiksted: It's presence in this sleepy town is confounding but the best place for lunch in town is Le St. Tropez (67 King Street, Frederiksted, 340-772-3000, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. until 2:30 p.m.); it's a fabulous French bistro with patio seating. For lovers of healthy fare (particularly vegetarians), Uca's Kitchen (Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. until 7 p.m.; Saturday from 12:20 p.m. until 7 p.m., Custom House Street @ King) is a locals' favorite.
The Blue Moon (17 Strand Street, 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m.) faces the water; between the wild and wacky color scheme and genuinely good sandwiches and such, it rocks when cruise ships are in town. For a coffee house ambience in Frederiksted, check out Tropical Java (330 Strand Street).
Casual, in-town joints in Christiansted: At Stixx on the Waterfront (39 Strand Street, Christiansted, 340-773-5157, from 11:30 a.m. daily) try the fresh fish sandwich.
On the north shore: Off the Wall Beach Bar & Restaurant (Northshore, 340-778-4771, from 8 a.m.).
Shore Excursions
A trip to Buck Island National Park, which is off the Christiansted coast, is a terrific snorkeling tour; the island is six miles off the coast and is maintained as part of the National Park Service.
St. Croix Island Highlights, a three- to four-hour excursion, takes you through the rain forest, to a variety of museums, past the ruins of a sugar plantation and into Christiansted.
Horseback through the rain forest.
Paddle a kayak through Salt river Bay.
Staying in Touch
You're out of luck here; there are no Internet cafes in Frederiksted.
For More Information
On the Web: www.stcroixtourism.com
On the Web: www.visitstcroix.com
Cruise Critic Message Boards: St. Croix
The Independent Traveler: Caribbean Exchange
--Updated by Carolyn Spencer Brown, Editor
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 Shore Excursions
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