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Grand Cayman Overview
Imagine the stereotypical cruise port -- one with white sand beaches, a plethora of duty free shops selling jewels and liquor, and de rigueur water activities like snorkeling and scuba -- and Grand Cayman might just be the destination the cliche is based on. In addition to the lovely Seven Mile Beach, George Town's retail center and water sports galore, Grand Cayman celebrates marine life at Stingray City and the Cayman Turtle Farm, and even offers a twist on island paradise with the town of Hell (THE place from which to send the quintessential kitschy postcard).
Yet the cliche does have a negative side -- and those are the crowds. It's not unusual to find five mega-ships docked in the harbor at the same time, which makes the tendering process slower than usual and the downtown streets jam-packed. (Building a cruise pier at which ships could berth is oft discussed, but it's never gone beyond the "pre-planning" stage.) The constant influx of cruise passengers keeps the waterfront restaurants bustling, so lunch in port is never a cheap affair. A stroll along the beach quickly turns into an obstacle course of sunbathing tourists, sandy children and watersports vendors.
Visitors have two choices -- embrace the crowds and touristy places with a laidback island mindset or escape them. Secluded beaches, like Cayman Kai or Rum Point, are a cab ride away, and even Seven Mile Beach has its less crowded spots. A mall at Governors Square offers designer clothes, housewares and even a healthy cafe for a refreshing change from pareos, shell necklaces and over-priced seafood. And the seemingly endless stretches of sea never feel too congested when you're swimming peacefully through coral formations.
And like any Caribbean island worth its salt and sand, Grand Cayman has weathered a few hurricanes -- most recently Hurricane Paloma in November 2008. With a solid infrastructure in place, the island survived the storm -- with the exception of a blown off roof or two (the Courtyard Marriott, for instance, lost its top) -- and easily bounced back to its jaunty self. After all, if Grand Cayman didn't offer its 1.7 million cruise visitors the beaches, shops, restaurants and attractions they've come to expect, the cliche wouldn't hold. And where would Grand Cayman be then?
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Other Western Caribbean Cruise Ports:
Belize City • Costa Maya • Cozumel • Galveston • Grand Cayman • Havana • Key West • Mobile • Montego Bay • New Orleans • Ocho Rios • Playa del Carmen (Calica) • Progreso • Roatan • Tampa
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Best Cocktail
A "Cayman Mama" consists of a mix of Caribbean fruit juices along with both gold and coconut rum. Try it at the Cracked Conch by the Sea (just past the Turtle Farm in West Bay; open from 11:00 a.m.).
Language
English -- the British version -- is the official language.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
Local currency is the Cayman Island Dollar, but U.S. dollars are also accepted throughout the island. The Cayman dollar is pegged to the U.S. dollar at a rate of $1 CI to $1.20, though you may see currency exchange rates of $1 CI to $1.25.
The Cayman Islands are an international banking center, so finding a financial institution is not difficult. There are ATMs located throughout downtown George Town.
Where You're Docked
All ships are currently required to anchor in the harbor and tender passengers on to the island. Ships tender passengers to one of two George Town docks (North or South), both of which are right in downtown George Town.
Hanging Around
George Town, where there's a cluster of shops, restaurants and museums, is within walking distance of the dock.
Getting Around
On Foot: You'll be dropped a few steps from town, where you can easily walk to numerous shops and restaurants.
By Taxi: Cabs without meters are available at the dock. Rates are fixed and posted, but be sure to confirm the fare before the driver takes off. New cabs have meters. Most cabs are actually van-sized, and drivers will require a four passenger minimum before they'll take you anywhere.
By Bus: You can hail minibuses that shuttle passengers along the main routes. To hail one, respond with a wave when the driver toots his horn. The bus depot is next to the library (across from the Hero's Square Fountain). There are stops next to popular attractions like Dolphin Discovery and Hell, but you may be taking the "scenic" ride when using the public bus (a good way to see the island).
By Car: Cico Avis offers one-day specials to cruise passengers and runs a courtesy shuttle between the port and the rental office (345-949-2468). Out at Seven Mile Beach, Andy's Rent A Car (345-949-8111) has good Internet discounts. Americans are required to purchase driving permits (the tourist office quotes a fee of $7.50 while some car rental agencies charge $8), but you can buy it at the rental office. Remember, Grand Cayman is a British overseas territory, so drive on the left.
Don't Miss
 The eclectic shopping in George Town includes artifacts for making handcrafted jewelry, antiques, salvaged coins and old maps. Cardinal Avenue is the main shopping street. On it, you'll find Caymania Duty Free, one of the island's best-known duty free shops for perfumes, cosmetics and gemstones. Kirk Freeport is another terrific duty free choice, with Swiss watches, fine china and crystal. The Jewelry Center offers designer baubles. At the Galleria Plaza (West Bay Road), a number of shops sell duty free stuff. The Tortuga Rum Company (S. Church Street and various other locations) makes incredible rum cakes. You can sample the different flavors before buying.
Scuba diving is one of the Cayman Islands' main attractions, and the Cayman Wall is a world-renowned dive site. The island abounds with dive and snorkelling trip operators, such as Ocean Frontiers (800-348-6096) and Bob Soto's (800-262-7686).
The Cayman Turtle Farm is home to 16,000 turtles. It's a unique breeding ground and research center for five species of green sea turtles. (Northwest Point Road, West Bay)
Been There, Done That
Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park consists of 65 acres of everything from nature walks to natural wetlands to colorful floral gardens. It's located in the North Side district. (Daily from 9 a.m.)
Located in West Bay across from the Turtle Farm, Dolphin Discovery provides a chance to swim and play with the clever marine mammals in a large pool. The company also has centers set up in Tortola, Cancun and Cozumel.
 The Pedro St. James "Castle" is considered the birthplace of democracy in the Cayman Islands. In 1831, residents met here to elect the Cayman's first legislative assembly. The great house itself, circa 1780, is the island's oldest stone structure. It has lovely grounds that are ideal for strolling. Check out the panoramic view from the Great Pedro Bluff. (Daily from 9 a.m.)
The town of Hell is, admittedly, a tourist trap (it's centered on a field of crusty black, razor-sharp rocks that look like the surface of, well, hell), but you may find it difficult to resist the impulse to send a postcard that's postmarked "Hell."
A swish shopping mall at Governors Square (West Bay Road) features a collection of single-story shops laid out courtyard-style. A substantial department store is stocked with designer clothes, housewares, and a cafe specializing in homemade smoothies and other healthy fare.
Beaches
Best Beach for a Half-Day: Seven Mile Beach (which is actually about 5 1/2 miles long) starts at George Town and has everything from beachfront bars to watersports.
Best Beach for the Dedicated Beach Bum: Again, Seven Mile Beach is great for catching rays (sun rays, not stingrays) and has watersports rental facilities galore.
Best Secluded Beach: Try Cayman Kai, Rum Point or Smith Cove.
Best Beach for Watersports: Aside from Seven Mile Beach, the best windsurfing is found off of East End, near Morrit's Tortuga Club.
Best beach with the worst name: Cemetery Beach off West Bay Road (just north of Seven Mile). Offers good shade, excellent snorkeling and a reef that's close to shore.
Best beach/shopping combo: Governor's Beach, which features the new Governor's Square Mall.
Lunching
Casual island eateries: In George Town, Maxin's (Monday - Saturday, 11:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.) and The Brasserie (11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.; Cricket Square) offer Continental fare.
Along Seven Mile Beach, choices include Cimboco (open from 7 a.m.), which has great jerk chicken Caesar; Ragazzi for pizza (from 11:30 a.m.; West Bay Road); and Thai Orchard (11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m., Monday to Saturday) for Thai food. For guaranteed free range chicken dishes, try Calypso Chicken Coconut Place, which offers both indoor and alfresco dining.
The Cracked Conch (from 11:00 a.m., West Bay, near the Turtle Farm) has jerk chicken and conch fritters. Champion House. (6:30 a.m. to midnight, Monday - Saturday; 8 a.m. to midnight on Sunday; 43 Eastern Avenue) is a favorite with the locals. It features popular island dishes like curried goat, braised oxtail and turtle stew. Kaibo Yacht Club Beach Bar & Grill (from 11:00 a.m., Cayman Kai, North Side) is known for its crab cakes. The Wreck Bar is the place on Rum Point for burgers (from 10:30 a.m.).
Gourmet Lunching: The Grand Old House, located in an old plantation house, is full of atmosphere. The building was shipped from Boston and reassembled in George Town nearly 100 years ago (648 S. Church St.; Monday - Friday, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m., reservations highly recommended, call 345-949-9333).
Shore Excursions
Here are our choices for the best ship-sponsored shore excursions:
Best Hands-On Choice for Nature Lovers: To experience one of the most popular shore excursions in world, visit Stingray City, where the stingrays are so tame they suck the squid right out of your hand. Warning: When there are lots of ships in port, the water gets very crowded and the stingrays are positively swamped by eager humans (and vice versa). Duration 3 - 4 hours.
Best Choice for Sightseeing Nature Lovers: Take a ride on the Atlantis Submarine, a real, 50-foot long submarine that carries 46 passengers 65 to 100 feet below the surface for a close-up look at the Cayman Wall. Not to worry, you won't get wet -- or hot, as the sub is air-conditioned. Duration 1.5 hours.
Best for active types: The Cayman Jeep Wrangler Adventure and Beach Snorkel tour is an island tour via 4x4 jeep. Travel in convoy to Morgan's Harbor, through Barkers National Park and the Cayman mangroves (home to the blue iguana), and on through local towns and villages with stops at Hell, a rum cake factory and Beach Club Colony, where you get two hours to snorkel in the turquoise seas off Seven Mile Beach. Duration 5.5 hours.
Staying in Touch
Numerous cafes, hotels and shops offer Internet access in Grand Cayman. Cable & Wirelss, the main Internet provider for the Cayman Islands, has a "Communication Station" located next to Columbian Emeralds in George Town. You'll find other options at Galleria Plaza, West Bay Road and along Seven Mile Beach, and there is an Internet cafe up an alley opposite the main George Town post office, a five-minute walk from the tender stations.
For More Information
Contact the Cayman Islands Department of Tourism at 877-4-CAYMAN
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Cayman Islands
The Independent Traveler: Cayman Islands Boards
--by Maria Harding and Erica Silverstein. Updated by Dan Askin, Associate Editor
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 Shore Excursions
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