Lovely unspoiled countryside with friendly accommodating people. The railway trip into the mountains is a must, but we saved £11 a ticket simply by getting our tickets on the day rather than booking on board.
Again book trips yourself to save quite a large chunck of money. Don't go anywhere near the blue double deckers however because although they advertise a hop on/hop off tour it is neither a tour or hop on hop off. We found this out but did succeed in getting a full refund. The small train type tour is good and takes you higher into the surrounding hills than standard mini buses.