Getting off the ship was pure hell...they have to come up with a tendering system that is less chaotic. This is the one port where doing a shore excursion with Celebrity seems rather necessary (otherwise you sit and rot on the ship...up to a 5 hour wait).
The town is charming and the Islands have a lot of history. If you get off the ship early enough there are men and women who can drive you to various penguin colonies...have US $ (upwards of $250/person although some will do it for less) but the gift shops prefer British pounds...
Beagle Channel and bus tour of National Park...excellent...more hurry up and wait as they tried to get us off the ship but once we were off the ship and on the catamaran all was great. Sea Lion colony was amazing, we had a great guide and the buses are in really good shape...I have no idea why Celebrity keeps on apologizing for the buses you will have in South America...the town is around 80,000 so bigger than we were expecting...very picturesque...very touristy (think Banff in Canada or Springdale in Utah). Would love to go back and hike the national parks that surround Ushuaia.