Ajaccio is in a beautiful bay, cruising in and out is really lovely. The city is surprising unlovely, not ugly, but not pretty. I speak French, we didn't take a tour. I didn't hear much English at all, anywhere. Went to the Fresch Museum, excellent collection of Italian art, including a Botticelli. We went to a recommended cafe from the Michelin guide (Grand Cafe Napoleon), for lunch, it was empty but fully booked (they were expecting a group of 40, monsieur), we ate elsewhere, and noticed later that this group of 40 never arrived. The outdoor cafe we had lunch in was OK, nothing special. We did some clothes shopping and was surprised by the excellent selection and great service, my spouse, who loves to shop, and does not speak French, was given some info in halting words of English, but with my French it all went very well. So surprise, without all the big name designer stores in more touristy areas, clothes shopping in Ajaccio is a great deal for quality goods! Two local men in a cafe almost came to blows, were yelling real loud and got many locals involved in calming them down. There is something very authentic about Ajaccio, if not charming.