For anyone planning a cruise round Cape Horn, be aware that sea conditions affect the actual times of arrival and departures which means that your time in port may be significantly shorter (e.g., Ushuaia) than listed in the outlined itinerary (Punta Arenas and Puerto Montt less so). The Veendam experienced heavy seas out of Montevideo for 2 days and did not land tenders at the Falklands. One elderly passenger was medically evacuated there due to a broken hip suffered in a fall during a tango lesson held in the theatre located in the ship's bow. The bow is very unstable in high seas and its easy to lose one's balance. The lesson should have been canceled. Refunds of port charges were made to all.

My plans or a private tour of Montevideo with Marta Marquez were momentarily foiled when she did not show up, but a competitor (Hebert Sismondi- e-mail: hsis@adinet.com.uy) was available who gave us an excellent 5-hour tour of the city with time out for an excellent seafood lunch at a local non-touristy waterside restaurant. We made the mistake of ordering separate appetizers and entrees (huge portions). Don't be afraid to use these local individuals. He charged $190 for 4 people-lunch not included (we gave him $200).

Scenic cruising around Cape Horn and in the Drake Canal was fantastic with spectacular snow-covered mountains and islands. In time-short Ushuaia (7am-12:30pm) with nothing open at 7am, we took the $35 Rambo Sur 2-1/2 hr boat trip to view cormorants, sealions, and the lighthouse (no time to view penguins) and harbor with great views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers. But one man took up a free-lancer for a city tour plus glacier 3-hr visit for $35 that he said was great. Read more