We found Egypt fascinating, but a guide is a must. We used DeCastro Tours and had our own driver and guide. Would highly recommend. We went from Port Said to Cairo, overnight in Cairo (this is a must, it is a long drive) and then back to Alexandria. We skipped the Nile cruise, but did take the Cairo subway (surprisingly clean and orderly compared to the rest of the city). Don't stint on Alexandria; it is quite different from Cairo and worth seeing in its own right, particularly the catacombs which were one of the more interesting things we saw on the trip.