On the plus side: Unexpectedly comfortable and well-appointed cabins (well worth splurging for the big windows), charming and competent guides (pretty remarkable given that they do the same itinerary every week), more and less strenuous options (sometimes three choices) for those who want serious hikes, good food (although it runs out fast), overall great value for money (compared to fancier cruise lines). They made big efforts to provide guides in several languages.

On the minus side: Compulsory table seating for every meal with the same people (we ended up with a very boring table and purposely came late so we would not have sit too long with them!), most of the lectures could use a bit of polish (improve the slides or show a nature documentary!), long waits to board the zodiacs.

It rained every day, but somehow that did not matter. Some people did not bring enough rain gear and were miserable. Do bring your own hiking pole(s) if you use one as they do not have many to loan.