This is for the Oosterdam sailing from Rome on 18 April, right after it came out of dry dock.
First the good:
The staff was generally excellent. We had a Neptune suite, and the Neptune Lounge being right across the hall from our room was a great convenience. The Lounge staff were like personal concierges who could handle most anything we might need on ship. They could also make change in euros, which was handy before excursions. And they somehow learned everyone's name in about two seconds. I was very impressed.
Nicely done refurbishment with soft sheets and bedding, and calm colors. Having the Neptune Lounge right across the hall was a HUGE convenience - we enjoyed the amenities and the staff (Niina and Carol) and were there often for snacks or information.
I'd been anticipating this port since long before the cruise was even booked. It did not disappoint. During a cold, windy and slightly raining day we wandered thru the back alleys of the town, walked the ancient walls, and had lunch in a terrific little place. The town is as beautiful as you expect. Despite the wind causing the cable car to close temporily denying us a view from the hilltop, this was my favorite port.
Try black risotto with cuttlefish. Just try it. Then try it again. Wow.
Split is a pretty little town that is easily walkable from the dock. We toured Diocletian's Palace for a nominal charge. There was excellent signage in each room to provide context for what is essentially empty rooms.
After walking around a bit, we basically decided to just camp out in a small park behind the Palace. It was Spring. Everything was in bloom. Beautiful.