Our 32-day Inca Explorer cruise from San Diego to Lima and return was a mixed bag of pleasure and frustration. The M/S Amsterdam, one of Holland America’s older, smaller ships, is generally well maintained and quite attractive. Built before balcony cabins were the vogue, she has many inside and outside cabins, most small but sufficient in size, and, I believe, most all with actual bathtubs, and quite large closet spaces. She is used primarily for extended voyages, and her 1200-passenger capacity is appropriate for such voyages.

Previous reviews of the Amsterdam have highlighted the spotty dining room service and unexceptional food quality. Our experience suggested that these criticisms were generally valid, although a few dinners were excellent.

While our waiter and busboy were attentive, caring and hardworking, there was little doubt that Holland America has purposely understaffed their main dining room: the wait staff had too many tables to serve properly, and the food when finally delivered was frequently not hot. Since dinner commences at specific times, there is no escaping the bottlenecks of essentially all guests at any one of the two seatings arriving, being seated, being handed their menus and then ordering, each activity occurring at the same time. Our small group of six friends travelling together frequently waited as long as 15 minutes after ordering before our appetizers were served. One evening, my wife and I dined alone while our friends went to the Pinnacle Grille. We were the (lucky) first of our waiter’s responsibilities to be given our menus, first to have our orders taken, and first to be served each course. Our service that evening was prompt and our food served at appropriate temperatures, indicating that our assumption that the wait staff was overburdened was a correct one. Read more