Early in my cruising experience, I encountered a couple who had just returned from a soft adventure cruise. I was surprised to learn that their vacation lacked almost all of the attributes that I had equated with the quintessential cruise experience. What, no production shows? No bingo? No organized activities? Years later I had the opportunity to travel on just such a ship. Ironically, I hardly missed any of those things that had previously defined a major aspect of cruising.
And while a large percentage -- yes, a majority -- of cruise passengers will always gravitate to the style of sailing that romanced them aboard a ship in the first place, there are those who will ultimately venture into the specialized niches. These are the cruises that keep things fluid (no pun intended) and offer a wide spectrum of travel opportunities, whether the niche is small ship, mega-yacht, river barge or expedition vessel.
Expedition Cruising?
On the surface (rats, another unintentional pun!), "expedition cruising" is a tough, seemingly contradictory concept to wrap your head around. Christopher Columbus lining up with his shipmates on the Santa Maria for the midnight buffet? Having hardtack and dried salt cod at the captain's welcome aboard dinner on your next Caribbean cruise? Well, no.
As the name implies, expedition cruising is a taste of exploration and adventure in off-the-beaten-path places. It's an experience more likely torn from the pages of National Geographic than Travel & Leisure; in fact, National Geographic, under the banner of major expedition operator Lindblad Expeditions, is a prominent player in this niche. Expedition ships are small, with shallow drafts, able to inch closer to those less visited, out-of-the-way ports or scenic wonders. A seven-night expedition sailing in many ways feels more like a one-week shore excursion than a cruise.
But what sets expedition cruising apart from the norm most is the relationship between voyage and ports. On a typical ship the cruise experience is made up in equal measure by experiences ashore -- both organized and independent -- and various activities and entertainment, provided by a "cruise staff." When conventional ships add programs of an educational or informational nature they are defined as "enrichment," an augmentation to, rather than the main thrust of, the cruise experience. They are the seasoning, not the main course.
In lieu of cruise director and staff, expedition ships are led by an "expedition team," with a team leader and sometimes a support staff of academicians and scientists who deliver lectures and briefings on the politics, culture, history, geology, geography, biology, ecology or anthropology of their vessel's destinations. In this context, the educational becomes the meat and potatoes, with a soupcon of entertainment thrown in to spice things up and keep the trip from getting too serious.
Aboard an expedition ship the expedition leader often has a lot greater say in day-to-day scheduling and destinations, and both aspects are more fluid than in the daily programs of conventional ships. This permits the flexibility of changing course or plans on a dime to take advantage of weather, sea conditions, wildlife sightings or any other serendipitous occurrence.
Clearly, this format is not for everyone. One keystone of expedition cruising is the extensive use of Zodiac inflatable rafts instead of conventional tenders. Not only does this require more agility transferring to and from the ship, but often the destination is a beach or rocky shoreline lacking any sort of a pier, necessitating a "wet landing" (having to jump over the side into the water and wade to shore). Once ashore the explorations are relatively demanding of dexterity and endurance, and there is little coddling or special treatment for those who may have difficulty keeping up -- which leaves the impression that expedition cruising is barebones and Spartan to the exclusion of all pampering and refinements.
Until recently, that wasn't far from reality. However, a number of cruise lines have attempted, with some notable successes, to create a fusion between the exploratory aspects of expedition cruising and the civilized perks and service we've all come to appreciate.
Prime Expedition Cruising Regions
Though there are expedition-type adventures virtually anywhere on earth a boat can float, the locations most popular for sea-based exploration adventures are:
Alaska
Alaska is arguably the favorite choice for cruise travelers looking to get their feet wet in expedition cruising. When it comes to the natural world (biology, ecology, geology, climatology -- virtually any "ology" you can think of), Alaska has it all, and there's no better way to capture nature's magnificence. For one thing, the ships are small enough to navigate into areas that normally only shore excursion craft could tackle. Also, they almost always anchor overnight in these remote coves so that, at dawn or dusk -- when most animals wander down to the shore to hunt -- you'll be right there to capture a glimpse from your vessel's deck or through your cabin window from a stone's throw away. If the action doesn't take place right next to your ship, there undoubtedly will be daily Zodiac excursions.
And, of course, there's the guidance and organization of an expedition leader to tie it all together. If you like wildlife and scenic photography you'll want to go shopping for a bazillion-gigabyte card for your digital camera.
Who Goes There? Cruise West, which deploys 7 of its 10 ships in Alaska for at least a portion of the season, is most closely identified with the advent of Alaskan expedition cruising. Lindblad Expeditions' Sea Lion also plies the inside passage. Lindblad is notable for having special family departures in Alaska (as well as in the Galapagos and Costa Rica), with excursions and activities keyed to kids. And for those who want a modicum of luxury and gourmet meals with their exploration, American Safari Cruises posts their three luxury yachts in Alaska for the season; Safari Escape and Safari Spirit each carry 12 passengers, while Safari Quest holds 21.
When to Go: The primary season runs May through August. During the edges and on the shoulders of that season, many expedition operators extend the wilderness experience into the milder climes of British Columbia.
What to Do Ashore: It's all about nature. You can hike up or rappel down a glacier, or, on one of the ship's Zodiac rafts, get close enough to the face of a calving glacier that you can feel the spray from the falling bergs. You will get closer to whales than you ever felt possible -- close enough that you know they have really bad breath -- or near enough to bears that you begin to question whether you updated the beneficiary on that life insurance policy. You can enjoy visiting with Tlingkit Indians in their own villages, go kayaking after dinner in a twilight that lasts past 10 p.m., or go salmon fishing and have the fish you catch flash frozen and shipped to you at home.
Antarctica
Could there be a more inhospitable spot on earth than Antarctica? Well, unless you're a penguin, orca or seal, probably not. But what could make a place more desirable to the traveler looking for the under-visited than that? There is no native population in Antarctica or within 500 miles of its coasts, yet the sea abounds with life.
Nature has granted animals an adaptation that prevents them from freezing to death. For many, survival is possible through a thick insulating layer of blubber. Meanwhile, fish thrive thanks to naturally produced "antifreeze" in their blood. Fortunately for those creatures who consider fish the tasty, next-lower rung on the food chain, this antifreeze is protein-based, not derived from toxic hydrocarbons.
Who Goes There? Lindblad holds the leadership role here, offering Antarctic expeditions since 1966. Voyages of Discovery sails a two- or three-cruise season, combined with other expeditionary destinations. Orion Cruises features five or six Antarctic voyages out of Hobart, Tasmania, aboard their five-star expedition ship, MV Orion, and Regent Seven Seas Cruises' five-star Explorer II sails a handful of voyages a year out of Argentina's Ushuaia. In late 2008, Silversea's Prince Albert II will begin Antartica cruises from Ushuaia as well. Generally speaking, South America is the preferred departure point as it is closer to the region of Antarctica favored for cruise exploration. Hurtigruten's Nordnorge -- almost directly opposite its home -- also does expeditions out of Ushuaia.
When to Go: Antarctica has a short cruising season for obvious reasons. There are four peak summer months -- November, December, January and Feburary are the only times Antarctica is hospitable enough for the recreational explorer (of course, being below the equator, the seasons are reversed).
What to Do Ashore:
Antarctica is the juxtaposition of a rich biodiversity on the coast with the utter and spectacularly beautiful desolation of the Antarctic terrain. Expect to see whales of both toothed and baleen varieties, seals of multiple species, birds on the wing, and waddling and diving penguins of varying species and sizes. Not to imply that human endeavors are slighted! You can expect to see various research stations, whose personnel will be surprisingly eager to discuss their work with you -- after, all, it's nice to converse once in awhile with someone that isn't a penguin or elephant seal.
The Galapagos Islands
Famed evolutionary scientist Charles Darwin was a naturalist aboard the survey ship H.M.S. Beagle, fascinated by the variation of similar species evolving in nearby, but physically isolated, islands. In the 20th century, Thor Heyerdahl reportedly uncovered shards of pottery in the Galapagos that, to him, suggested a match with shards from South American Indian archeological sites, leading him to the theory that the islands of the South Pacific were populated by ocean-crossing migrants from South America. There is so much interest in the Galapagos, in fact, that the government of Ecuador, which administers the islands, has designated 97 percent of them a protected national park, with tourism strictly controlled.
Who Goes There? Lindblad, again, has the historic edge here, but Voyages of Discovery offers a number of fascinating combo expedition sailings, merging visits to the Galapagos with Central America, or Peru and Chile, Antarctica, even Polynesia. And, for those who seek a bit of luxury, Celebrity Xpedition offers sailings on a small ship that blends five-star pampering with total immersion in the depth and details of the Galapagos.
When to Go: Since they sit astride the equator, the Galapagos have a relatively unchanging climate. However, there are two ocean currents that have an effect on the weather. During times of the year that the cold Humboldt Current holds sway over the warm equatorial current, temperatures drop, and fog and misty rain are common. Water temperatures reach 77 degrees in the warm season; 72 is the coldest.
What to Do Ashore: For the average eco-fascinated tourist it's all about being able to hike this unique biosphere; learn about the geology; come face to face with the islands' unique species; and learn firsthand what Darwin deduced, seeing his epiphanies through their own eyes. For those who dare to brave the chilly waters of the Humboldt Current, there is the draw of snorkeling or diving with sea lions, whales and schools of hammerhead sharks.
The Sea of Cortez
At a geologically infantile six million years of age it's one of earth's youngest seas, a long narrow body of water separating the Baja California peninsula from the main part of Mexico. On many maps it's called the Gulf of California; on others it's printed with the more accurate Spanish spelling, Cortes.
It has also been called "the world's largest fish trap," as fish swept into it by tides and currents are often unable to find their way back to the Pacific through the narrow straits at the tip of Cabo San Lucas where the Sea of Cortez meets the larger ocean. Or, perhaps they stay because of the rich and varied food chain, with an unusually abundant supply of plankton. At the top of the food chain are several varieties of whales, dolphins and pinnipeds (seals and sea lions), not to mention sharks and giant Pacific manta rays.
The islands of the Sea of Cortez are stark and arid, and show the twisted striations and folded and refolded strata that reflect the region's tortured geologic past. The biodiversity ashore may be subtler than in the undersea realm, but it is similarly rich in flora (desert plants including varieties of cactus and succulents) and fauna (mainly birds and reptiles).
Who Goes There? By and large the same players that ply Alaska's Inside Passage in the summer -- namely, Lindblad Expeditions, Cruise West and American Safari Cruises -- fill the expedition niche in the Sea of Cortez with at least one vessel during the winter months. Silversea's new expedition ship will offer a handful of itineraries beginning in September 2008.
When to Go: Most lines sail the Sea of Cortez between the months of December and April, to avoid the hottest of the summer months, but also because this time frame is the peak of whale watching season. (Whales are found year-round in the Sea of Cortez, but the California Gray Whales migrate there annually to birth their calves between December and March, and are particularly abundant then.)
What to Do Ashore: Whale-watching is of prime interest to expedition cruisers in the Baja. By Zodiac (within the limits of environmental law), it's possible to get incredibly close to these beautiful leviathans and their offspring. There are ample opportunities for both scuba and snorkeling aficionados; up-close-and-personal encounters with sea lions at the island of Los Islotes top everyone's list, though diving with hammerheads, manta rays, moray eels and even the occasional whale or dolphin also rate high on the aquatic drama scale.
For those who prefer enjoying their explorations without getting wet there are nature hikes featuring naturalist discussions of the geology and ecology of the Baja, concentrating on desert flora and close-up encounters with its birds and reptiles.
The South Pacific
The region is, in reality, a combination of two main areas: the large island nations of Australia and New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands (all the "-nesias": Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia, spread-out groups of small islands grouped by the indigenous peoples that populate them).
South Pacific expedition cruises offer a balance of culture and nature. The islands' relative isolation has protected native traditions here more so than in many other regions; there are numerous shore excursions to visit those whose ancestral lifestyles are part of their day-to-day functioning rather than a demonstration to educate First World visitors. Natural science exploratory forays in the Pacific Islands focus heavily on marine biology, with the biggest emphasis on the ecology of coral reefs.
Australian itineraries feature a mix of nearly all scientific disciplines, with the proportion of elements of that mix dictated by the region cruised: trips along the eastern coastline will focus most heavily on the marine sciences due to the proximity of the Great Barrier Reef, with rainforest ecology a close second. Australia's northern and southern coasts provide striking scenic and geologic viewing opportunities.
Who Goes There? Virtually every expedition cruise operator sails Pacific Islands voyages, though the number of potential port calls is so vast that all offer multiple itinerary options. Though a number of expedition ships touch the Great Barrier Reef and Queensland coast on their way from the Pacific Island groups to Papua New Guinea, the best choice (in our book) for an Australian expedition sailing is with Australia's own Orion Expedition Cruises. In addition to the Great Barrier Reef, Queensland coastline and rainforest, and Papua New Guinea, Orion also includes the lesser-known Kimberley Coast on the north shore and the wild, unspoiled island of Tasmania to the south.
When to Go: Pacific Island destinations lie south of the equator, and, since the seasons are reversed, our summer and autumn months (June through November) are prime for visiting. It rains less during this period, and there's a reduced possibility of tropical cyclones. Because of its distance from the equator, Tasmanian itineraries are scheduled at the beginning and end of the southern hemisphere's summer (March and December), bracketing the Antarctica season to minimize cold weather issues.
What to Do Ashore: In the Pacific Islands, snorkeling is an obvious choice. Here you'll find some of the clearest waters in the world, especially in the lagoons of islands and atolls sheltered by circular barrier reefs. The region is also a mecca for scuba divers. Not only are the reefs on the outside of the lagoons spectacular but they also are populated with awe-inspiring sea creatures of enormous proportions -- sharks and giant Pacific manta rays, to name a few.
Because these islands were key to the Pacific theater of the World War II, there is much in the way of military wreckage; planes, destroyers and tanks beckon underwater explorers. There is much in the way of World War II historical artifacts to be found ashore as well, adding additional interest for the expeditionary history buff.
The Pacific Islands are also treasure troves for Polynesian, Micronesian and Melanesian native cultures, and expedition cruises offer ample opportunities for passengers to immerse themselves in those cultural experiences.
Along the Great Barrier Reef are similar snorkeling and diving experiences. The Kimberley Coast offers incredibly dramatic natural spectacles, many of which can be enjoyed from trips by Zodiac raft, including amazing horizontal waterfalls created by huge tidal changes. In Tasmania, it's the wildlife, hiking and spectacular vistas that have Orion's passengers talking for months after returning home.
--by Steve Faber. South Florida-based Faber is a longtime contributor to Cruise Critic and also columnist for Cruise Critic's Cruise News & Reviews. Beyond our publications, Faber's work has appeared in a myriad of outlets, including Cruise Travel Magazine, "The Miami Herald" and "The Total Traveler Guide to Worldwide Cruising."
Early in my cruising experience, I encountered a couple who had just returned from a soft adventure cruise. I was surprised to learn that their vacation lacked almost all of the attributes that I had equated with the quintessential cruise experience. What, no production shows? No bingo? No organized activities? Years later I had the opportunity to travel on just such a ship. Ironically, I hardly missed any of those things that had previously defined a major aspect of cruising.
Alaska is arguably the favorite choice for cruise travelers looking to get their feet wet in expedition cruising. When it comes to the natural world (biology, ecology, geology, climatology -- virtually any "ology" you can think of), Alaska has it all, and there's no better way to capture nature's magnificence. For one thing, the ships are small enough to navigate into areas that normally only shore excursion craft could tackle. Also, they almost always anchor overnight in these remote coves so that, at dawn or dusk -- when most animals wander down to the shore to hunt -- you'll be right there to capture a glimpse from your vessel's deck or through your cabin window from a stone's throw away. If the action doesn't take place right next to your ship, there undoubtedly will be daily Zodiac excursions.
Who Goes There? Cruise West, which deploys 7 of its 10 ships in Alaska for at least a portion of the season, is most closely identified with the advent of Alaskan expedition cruising. Lindblad Expeditions' Sea Lion also plies the inside passage. Lindblad is notable for having special family departures in Alaska (as well as in the Galapagos and Costa Rica), with excursions and activities keyed to kids. And for those who want a modicum of luxury and gourmet meals with their exploration, American Safari Cruises posts their three luxury yachts in Alaska for the season; Safari Escape and Safari Spirit each carry 12 passengers, while Safari Quest holds 21.
At a geologically infantile six million years of age it's one of earth's youngest seas, a long narrow body of water separating the Baja California peninsula from the main part of Mexico. On many maps it's called the Gulf of California; on others it's printed with the more accurate Spanish spelling, Cortes.
The region is, in reality, a combination of two main areas: the large island nations of Australia and New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands (all the "-nesias": Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia, spread-out groups of small islands grouped by the indigenous peoples that populate them).
